August 18, 2026
Off to Poland today despite the forecast for low clouds. Alighting at Tanvald, clouds were clinging to hillsides as we hopped aboard the connection up and over Kořenov/Harrachov pass into Poland. At Skarska Porẹba Gorna, the summit of Szrenica was kind-of, sort-of, discernable through the clouds. We therefore popped back on the train we just got off to go two stations back to begin the hike to the mountains summit (1).
Beginning on the road, the trail turns east/right along old logging roads, ascending slowly. A rock formation appeared on the ridge, with a very narrow rock rising quite high. On through bogs and past deer blinds, we encountered few other hikers.
Entering the Karkonosze National Park, the trail conditions improved dramatically, with long boardwalks protecting the boggy terrain. We arrived at an open meadow, with a mountain hostel. There were a more people here, relatively close to the chairlift up from Sklarska Poręba.
The ascent from the meadow to the summit of Szenica was steep, along a wide path paved with stones designed to accomodate lots of hikers. The crowded hostel at the wind-swept, cloudy summit offered soup and kielbasa for a late lunch. Descent was by a chair lift, then a walk across town to the railway station and on to Karpacz (2). From here, we would have multiple options for a hiking plan tomorrow. Total of 7 miles today, with 1,900 feet of vertical gain.
(1) Minor kerfuffle as the conductor on the Czech train could accept neither credit cards nor Czech currency for a trip within Poland. Fortunately, I had just enough Polish currency (about $3) from a previous trip that I had remembered to put in my wallet before leaving home.
(3) Plan A had been to do this hike yesterday, then continue along the ridge to a mountain hut (bouda in Czech) on the Czechia side of the ridge. While the bouda had beds available, more clouds/fog were forecast for the morning, so we decided to descend below the predicted next-day cloud base.
Beginning on the road, the trail turns east/right along old logging roads, ascending slowly. A rock formation appeared on the ridge, with a very narrow rock rising quite high. On through bogs and past deer blinds, we encountered few other hikers.
Entering the Karkonosze National Park, the trail conditions improved dramatically, with long boardwalks protecting the boggy terrain. We arrived at an open meadow, with a mountain hostel. There were a more people here, relatively close to the chairlift up from Sklarska Poręba.
The ascent from the meadow to the summit of Szenica was steep, along a wide path paved with stones designed to accomodate lots of hikers. The crowded hostel at the wind-swept, cloudy summit offered soup and kielbasa for a late lunch. Descent was by a chair lift, then a walk across town to the railway station and on to Karpacz (2). From here, we would have multiple options for a hiking plan tomorrow. Total of 7 miles today, with 1,900 feet of vertical gain.
(1) Minor kerfuffle as the conductor on the Czech train could accept neither credit cards nor Czech currency for a trip within Poland. Fortunately, I had just enough Polish currency (about $3) from a previous trip that I had remembered to put in my wallet before leaving home.
(3) Plan A had been to do this hike yesterday, then continue along the ridge to a mountain hut (bouda in Czech) on the Czechia side of the ridge. While the bouda had beds available, more clouds/fog were forecast for the morning, so we decided to descend below the predicted next-day cloud base.
Changing trains in Tanvald, Czechia, near the Polish border
The climb starts near Polana Jacužycka
Rock formations are common in the Karkonosce
Entering the Karkonosze National Park
Recently rebuilt boardwalk protecting a boggy area
Stone steps after a bridge to inhibit erosion
Approaching Shelter Hall Szrenicka
(Schronisko na Hali Szrenickiej)
Looking back to Schronisko na Hali Szrenickiej
Onto Szrenica Mountain Hostel
(Schronisko Szrenica) for some soup
At Szernica summit
Descent via chairlift
Walking through Sklarska Poreba Gorna
Looking back to Szernica from
Sklarska Poreba Gorna railway station
The local to Jelenia Gora for a connection to Karpacz
The end of the branch line at Karpacz
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