August 18, 2026
We had planned to begin hiking the Karkonosze ridge on the Czech/Polish border today, but low clouds clinging to the ridge dissuaded us. Instead, a train took us from Prague southwest to Karlštejn, home of a hill-top castle and the start of the Vojta Náprstek trail (1), the oldest marked hiking trail in Bohemia (2). The train carried many groups of children off to see the castle.
Hrad Karlštejn was built as a country retreat and repository for the crown jewels beginning in 1358 during the reign of Charles IV, Holy Roman Emperor. Delicious mead (both cherry and almond) are served in the well tower within the castle. The Castle withstood a siege during the Hussite rebellion in 1421 (3).
The Vojta Náprstek Trail heads southwest through forests and over hills through the Bohemian Karst Scenjc Area. Descending to Svetý Jan pad Skalou (4), cliffs rose high above the Benedictine Monastery. Back into the woods for a few more miles and hills before reaching the industrial town of Beroun, and a train back to Prague. Total distance 11 miles, with a 2 100 foot vertical gain (not all at once, lots of up and down on the rolling hills).
(1) The trail was named after Vojta Náprstek, founder of a local hiking group, in 1889.
(2) The Czech lands consisted of Bohemia and Moravia.
(3) Jan Hus was a Catholic theologian and reformer who was burned at the stake for his efforts. His followers rose in rebellion when they authorities tried to surpress them.
(4) The name means Saint John under the Rock, after the 9th century hermit who lived in a cave in the cliffs.
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