May 28, 2026
Mala Fatra National Park, in north-central Slovakia, is accessible via a train to Žilina, connecting with a bus to the town of Vratna (1). Dropping a bag at the hotel, I set out to the nearby trailhead at Pod Bobatami.
Rising modestly, the trail traverses the south side of Mount Boboty. The Jánošíkove Diery (2) starts just past the meadows at podžiar. The Dolne Diery (lower gorge) (3) trail descends 330 feet over about 3/4 mile, following the narrow gap down the brook bed, using boardwalks, metal stairs and platforms over and through the gorge. Turning around at the lower (north) end, I let a noisy high school group past me.
At the Ostrvné junction passed earlier, the Novy (new) Diery trails heads up a steeper and narrower gorge to the east. A long ladder here had me stow my hiking stick to use two hands (4). At one point, a choice was necessary: walk in the brook or hit your head on the high stone walls. Wanting the full experience, I did both (inadvertently). A trail above Dolne Diery returns to the meadows at podžiar. Here was lunch and a friendly crowd drinking beer in glass steins (5) (6).
Mt Boboty rises west of the meadow. The very steep trail (1,000 feet elevation gain in 7/10s of a mile) follows the shoulder of the mountain. While Boboty summit is wooded, there are ledges on the south side, offering views to the high peaks of Mala Fatra. Unlike the Diery trails, I encountered no one else climbing Boboty. Returning using the sane trail (to avoid an even steeper trail with ladders descending to the west), I was soon back at the hotel (7). Total hike today 6.5 miles with a 2,300 foot elevation gain.
(1) While outside the Park boundaries, Vratna is completely surrounded by the park and the mountains. The bus traverses a narrow gorge carved by the Varinka river, the only access to Vratna.
(2) Variously translated as hole or gap, here the word refers to the gorge scoured by a brook wearing away the softer rock.
(3) The Holne Diery (upper gorge trail) heads southeast from the meadow. A more technically intense trail, Holne Diery involves many more ladders, and chains to haul yourself up the sterp gorge. Not my cup of tea.
(4) The trail is one-way (ascending) due to the narrowness of Novy Diery. While a reasonable number of people were in the Diery trails today, it can be quite crowded on summer weekends
(5) A sign read Domáca Kapustnica with a picture of a bowl of soup. I know enough Slavic to know dom means home, so home-made soup. Sauerkraut, potato and one piece of sausage; just the thing.
(6) Hiking the Diery trails seems popular, with hikers going up and down the various trails or hopping on or off the bus at Vratna Stefano at the upper/south end of the trail.
(7) The British International School of Bratislava was staying here on a field trip; the first English I had heard. Overheard dialogue at breakfast the next day as a teacher was getting coffee:
14-year (a guess) old boy: Can I have coffee?
Teacher: Do you normally drink coffee at home?
Boy: No
Teacher: No, I don't want to be responsible for what might happen.
