March 20, 2026
Steven III (1) reigned as Voivode of Moldavia from 1457 to 1504. He kept the Poles. Hungarians, and Ottomans at bay using both diplomatic and military (2) means. He commissioned a number of Monasteries, resulting in the creation of a distinct Moldavian artistic style.
The closest Monastery was Moldoviţa, up a narrow valley. As with the other monasteries, the church is within a walled compound, and features frescoes on the exterior church walls. The frescoes were written (3) while the stucco was still fresh, infusing the stucco with the paint so both dried together. A service was occurring in a chapel built into the south wall of the compound on this Lenten morning.
A road up and over the Ciumârna Pass had some light snow on this late winter day. On the far side of the pass is the Suceviţa Monastery, known for its Green colors. One of the panels displays Judas with 30 pieces of silver on the table in front of him, payment for betraying Jesus (4).
The enclosing walls of Humor Monastery further south are not well-preserved. The Nun at the entrance spoke English, while we watched a neighborhood cat on the prowl. The frescoes here are known for their red tints.
The final Monastery to is at Voroneţ, the most well-known known, and home to the distinct Voroneţ Blue color, infused with precious (and expensive) lapis lazuli. The western wall is adorned with an enormous fresco depicting the first judgement that we studied for a while (4).
We drove on to Suveaca for the night, puzzled by the paucity of people out on a Friday night in this university town.
(1) Also known as Steven the Great/Ştefen cel Mare. His image adorns the modern currencies of both Romania and Moldova.
(2) His younger cousin Vlad Tepeş/Count Dracul was a military ally of Steven's.
(2) In the Orthodox tradition, frescoes are "written" to tell a story, not "painted." In addition to the normal paint oils, there was an organic substance, variously reported to be egg-based or a local brandy, to encourage paint adhesion and longevity.
(3) Leaving the church, I turned and crossed myself in the Orthodox manner. A nearby Nun asked if I were Orthdox, and was disappointed by my negative response.
(4) Consistent with the teaching message of the frescoes, we were able to figure out most of the meaning. Nevertheless, I was pleased to find an academic paper from 2023 explaining the fresco in detail (a):
Szcześniak, M. (2023). The Image of The Last Judgment on the West Wall of the Church in Voroneț–Genesis and Message. Trimarium, 4(4), 229-244.
(a) As we were discussing the painting from a bench using the academic paper on my phone as a guide, a Nun came by with a small Romanian group, stood between us and the painting, and yelled over to me "You're too loud" (i).
(i) While I was sotto voce inside the Monasteries, we were now outside.
On the road to Moldavita
At Moldaviţa Monastery:
Moldaviţa Monastery Grounds
Note the patch of icy snow to the right of the well; it is still late winter here.
Liturgy in chapel
View from the north, where the frescoes have been damaged by winter storms
The siege of Constantinople, exterior south wall. The fall of Constantinople (location of the Patriach of Constantinople, head of the Orthodox Church), occurred in 1453, within living memory of some when construction of the Monastery began.
A series of panels on the exterior south wall tells a story:
Three wise men traveling to Bethlehem
The wise men/magi paying homage to Jesus
An angel warns the magi to return home by a different route to avoid Herod
Jesus and the Holy Family flee to Egypt. You can feel the movement in the Fresco.
The presentation of Jesus at the Temple upon his return to Israel
The interior has a large number of frescoes depicting the beheadings of martyrs
Pasul Ciumârna, between Moldavita & Sucevita on a late winter's day
At Sucevita:
Sucevita Monastery Grounds
Sucevita is known for its Green colors
Mary (carrying Jesus) greets her cousin Elizabeth (carrying John the Baptist), south wall fresco
Opposite the Altar at Sucevita, the Story of the Passion:
Jesus carrying the cross on the Via Dolorosa with the two thieves also crucified that day
Jesus put on the cross.
The location of the crucifixion is Golgotha, also known as the place of the skull
Jesus Crucified.
The bent portrayal was different than I was used to, but probably more consistent with a crucifixion.
Down from the cross
Judas receives thirty pieces of silver for betraying Jesus
Jesus entombed
At Humor Monastery:
Ruşita (Rusty) the cat. Appropriate for the Humor Monastery, known for its red colors.
Jesus arrested at Gethsemane
Red is the predominant color at Humor
At Voroneţ:
The wall and grounds
The roof overhanging the east side
The Final Judgement Fresco on the West Wall,
The Sistine Chapel of the East
Top level: The Ancient of Day, with the signs of the Zodiac to the sides
Next level down: Jesus, flanked by Mary and St. John Prodromos.
The 12 Apostles complete this level
Middle level center:
The Bible on the throne of Hetoimasia with the Holy Spirit in the form of a dove.
Ancient Adam and Eve are to the sides
Middle level left: Paul with those saved: the Old Testament prophets and kings, the Church Fathers, believers and saints
Middle level right: those condemned: Jews, Turks, Latins, Armenians and Arabs. Moses is toward the center pointing our their iniquities. The Monasteries were commissioned at a time of Turkish incursions into Moldavia.
Second to the bottom, left: The trumpet sounds (tuba mirum sprangen sonum) and the dead arise. Wild animals spit out human bones they have consumed so the bones may rejoin their human bodies
Man's deeds being weighed on judgement day. The devil's try to tip the scales are being fended off by angels with pitchforks.
Guardian angel guides the righteous man (left) while the devil take the soul of a sinner (right)
St Peter with the key to heaven leading the saints
In Heaven: Abraham, Isaac, Jacob, the repenting thief holding the cross, and Mary.
