August 13, 2026
Early start on another hot day to find the trailhead to Monte Cave, a ridge to the south. No entry, private property signs at one, then snarling dogs at another. Enquiring "Monte Cave?" I was told "Chiuso (closed)."
Off on the bikes today the Castello de San Pelagio, a castle dating to the 1200s that also has an aviation museum. Good audio guide and then a walk through the gardens, but not clear what connection the family had to aviation.
The afternoon train south one stop connected to the local to Verona, past dry fields in this drought year. North of the city center, the Castel San Pietro offers view of the city. Opting for the stairs over the funicular, we joined the lovely crowd for the sunset.
To the colliseum in the city center (1) for Carl Orff's oratorio Carmina Burana. Based on secular writings and poems from the 12th century in Latin and early German found in a Bavarian monestary in 1803, the themes include young love, lots of drinking and a meal of goose from the goose's perspective. The soloists had no amplification, but could be heard clearly throughout the enormous arena; the Romans understood acoustics 2,000 years ago (2).
(1) The Arena di Verona, styling itself "The most Italian Place on Earth," has a summer opera festival.
(2) The soloists were also talented and well-trained.
