June 2, 2026
The first night spent in Bratislava suggested staying someplace else the last night in the area. A relief map showed an Austrian town on the Danube close to Bratislava, surrounded by hills. Frequent trains get to Hainburg an der Donau in about an hour. The wall city is very attractive and fairly quiet (1). Thus is the further northeast outpost of the Alps; the Carpathisns begin across the river to the east.
Rising 1,000 feet from the valley floor, the ridge to the west (Hundhiemer berg) had plenty of trails. About 700 feet up the sterp north side, a rocky outcrop provided views up and down the Danube and to Hainburg below. I lingered to enjoy the warm day (about 80°F), watching a river cruise boat slowly making its way west against the stiff current here in a narrow part of the Danube. The ridge top offered views to the west. Descending to the south, I encountered the only other person seen on the the hill, a cyclist slowly making his way up, then quickly down.
Back in town, a bluff between two steeper hills conyaons the ruins of a Castle, destroyed by the Ottomans in 1683. Another steep climb to this strategic site provided a good vantage point to see movement anywhere along the Danube in the area. About 7 miles and 1,300 feet elevation gain so far.
As dusk approached, I considered climbing Braunsberg, but the road down (needed after dark) was a long way out of the way, so a hike around town ended back at Castle to watch the sunset. I spent the night at a converted Monastery, thankfully in a room much bigger than a monk's cell (2).
(1) It was not always so. During the Ottoman advance towards Vienna in 1683, they captured Hainburg, basically their furthest advance into Europe. The Ottomans were unsuccessful in their siege of nearby Vienna, forced to retreat by the timely arrival of the Winged Hassar cavalry from the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth (a). The current Hainburg city walls were rebuilt after the Ottoman retreat.
(a) The Winged Hussars are sung about by the Swedish metal band Sabaton: https://youtu.be/87USghgUE2M?is=3VCnabOc71fA-NqI
(2) When he format observed the structure of living organisms through a microscope in 1655, Robert Hooke described the structures as like a Monks' cells. The name stuck.
The Danubian plain east of Vienna
On the train
Arriving at Hainsburg
Very long way from Vienna to Istanbul
At a local restaurant
Vienna Gate
Pointing the way
Lots of trees down. Looks like a recent storm with strong northwest winds judging by the direction of the treefalls.
Rocky summit on the far sude of town is the very end of the Alps. Behind (and across the river in Slovakia)], the Little Carpathians begin.
Great views to Hainburg from a rocky outcrop 700 feet above town
Ridge-top blooms
Views west from the Hundheimer ridge
Summit marker
Open on weekends, I presume
Painted rocks on picnic table
Halfway down
Not a jackhammer; the loudest woodpeck ever
Back to town
In a front yard
Castle entrance
The inner courtyard
West Castle wall
Hundheimer (first climb today) ascent from the steeper north side (right), more gentle descent to the south
The Austrian flag on the Castle tower
The walled city, below
Third trail snail this trip
Trail with steps down from the Castle to the east
Back to town
The city walls
Hungary gate
The rocky outcrop with views earlier
After dinner walk at 7:00
Fishers gate with access to the Danube
The central square
Upper gate was closed
Roadside poppy
Entering the path
Path up to Castle
Park benches are loungers
Sunset over the Danube from the Castle
Unusually, the wind picked up after sunset in the gloaming
Looking east
Town lights come on
Twilight on the Danube
