Steirischer Seeberg Pass to Oberkapfenberg

June 1, 2026

Brightening skies this morning encouraged me, but the rain soon came again, and swirling clouds on the hilltops argued against a local hike. Further south in Styria (1), it was predicted to be warmer and drier, and there was a bus departing in two hours, so I headed to the Basilica dominating Mariazell in the meantime.

The Basilica is a pilgrimage site dedicated to a statue of Mary carved from lime wood said to perform miracles. I remained for a mass with organ music. On the way to the bus, the smell of cooking gingerbread enticed passersby (me included) into a shop for the local specialty.

The bus had large windows (2), affording fine views of the Alpine scenery heading over the Steirischer Seeberg Pass into Styria. The road up to the pass had a gentle grade, while the descent to the south was steeper and effected by a series of switchbacks.

Pulling into Kapfenberg, a wooded bluff surmounted with a castle rose to the south of the Murz river (3). Where there is a wooded bluff, there must be a hiking trail. Rising steeply on a series of tight switchbacks, the trail had wooden railings where there were particularly steep drop-offs to the side. While the castle museum was closed on this Monday, a café was open (4). A little further up, a chapel offered fine views along the valley and to the north. Descent back to town was on a quiet road. Total of 2 3/4 miles with 650 foot gain. Good way to break up the trip back to Vienna.

Back to Vienna via the Semmering Pass rail line. A piano concert was on at the Konzerhaus. During the intermission, the audience opened the windows under the gallery for some fresh air. The concert concluded with Chopin's lively (and well-played) Polonaise in A♭ major, Op. 53.

(1) Austria is a federal republic with 9 states. Vienna and Mariazell are in Lower Austria, while the State of Styria lies to the south.

(2) Boarding the bus, telling the driver my destination ("Kapfenberg Bahnhof bitte"), with my credit card at the ready, the driver pointed at the card reader and said something that ended in "kaput." A cash fare it would have to be.

(3) Trains run hourly to Vienna, so there was flexibility to explore.

(4) A €10 note found on the hike up covered coffee and cake.

Clouds swirling over the hilltops dissuaded me from a local hike at Mariazell

The miraculous statue

Basilika of Mariazell

Gradually ascending to the pass from the north

Descending the steep south side of Steirischer Seeberg Pass

Syrian countryside

Hiking up to Burg Oberkapfenberg

Another trail snail

At the Castle

View north

Up to Loretta Kappele

Views from the chapel

On the road back down to town

Across the Murz river

At the Konzerhaus in Vienna for a piano concert