Wanderings: August 2026

Friday, August 21, 2026

Hrad Karlštejn & Vojta Náprstek’s Trail

August 18, 2026

We had planned to begin hiking the Karkonosze ridge on the Czech/Polish border today, but low clouds clinging to the ridge dissuaded us. A train headed southwest to Karlštejn, home to a hill-top castle and the start of the Vojta Náprstek trail (1), the oldest blazed Trail in Bohemia (2). The train carried many groups of children off to see the castle.

Hrad Karlštejn was built as a country retreat and repository for the crown jewels beginning in 1358 during the reign of Charles IV, Holy Roman Emperor. Delicious mead (both cherry and almond) are served in the well tower withi n the castle. The Castle withstood a siege during the Hussite rebellion in 1421 (3).

The Vojta Náprstek Trail heads southwest through forests and over hills through the Bohemian Karst Scenjc Area. Descending to Svetý Jan pad Skalou (4), cliffs rose high above the Benedictine Monastery here. Back unto the woods for a few more miles and hills before reaching the industrial town of Beroun, and a train back to Prague. Total distance 11 miles with 2100 for vertical gain (not all at once, lots of up and down on the rolling hills).

(1) The trail is named after Vojta Náprstek, founder of the local hiking group.

(2) The Czech lands consisted of Bohemia and Moravia.

(3) Jan Hus was a Catholic theologian and reformer who was burned at the stake for his efforts. His followers rose in rebellion when they authorities tried to surpress them.

(4) The name means Saint John under the Rock, after the 9th century hermit who lived in a cave in the cliffs.

Prague Hlavna Nzadra station

Screenshot of a Webcam on the Karkonosze ridge explains why we stayed at lower elevations today.

Arrival at Karlštejn

Stop for espresso at Karlsštejn village

The Karlštejn Castle above

The well tower where they serve cherry mead

Views of the Castle

On the trail to Svetý Jan

Trail through Svetý Jan

Back into the woods

Descent to Beroun

Trail through Beroun and over railway bridge

Bike parking at station

Beroun station, then back to Prague

The Jižní Express to Prague

August 16 to 17, 2026

Up early for a connection in Linz north to Prague. The rail line from Linz north to the Czechia border was under construction, but the ersatzverkehr (substitue bus) was easy to find. The express train to Prague waited at Rybník, just over the border in Czechia.

As we approached Prague, a man returning from a camping trip with his son asked us where we were from. "Oh, the Boston Bruins!" then inserting the name of a Czech hockey player on the team. Upon his enquiring, we told him we planned to climb Snĕžka, the tallest peak in Czechia. "Not too hard, I've done it." "But, we're old," was our reply.

A good walk through the city over Charles Bridge (Karlow Most (1)), climbing the western bridge tower. Passing through to the Senate Gardens, led to a climb up to Prague Castle. Buying tickets to ascend the Cathedral tower there, the seller warned us old people it was a long way up.

The day ended with a small orchestra concert in a church. The three violins, plus one each viola, cello, and base made a rich sound, ocassionally accompanied by a soprano. A short break for the orchestra left time for Bach's Tocatta and Fugue played on the church's organ. As with every concert in Prague, the orchestra performed Smetana's The Moldau from the Czech composer's Ma Vlast (my country).

The next day, we climbed the Town Hall Tower and toured the facility and cellars, including seeing the Astronomers' clock from behind. At the Jewish quarter, a thunderstorm provided a good excuse to take shelter in a chocolate shop for some hot chocolate until the storm passed.

With rain still threatening, we hopped on the historic trams for a tour of the city under a roof. After the storm, the sky looked more autumnal, and enjoyed the banks of the Vltava as the sun set.

(1) Karlow IV (Charles IV) was the Holy Roman Emperor from 1346 to 1378, the Golden Age of Bohemia. The bridge over the Vlatava (a) was built during his reign after the earlier Judith Bridge was swept away in a flood. The bridge stands to this day, the cars banished in 1965; pedestrians only now.

(a) Called the Moldau in German.