August 20, 2026
A strong thunderstorm with vivid lightning rolled through about 2 a.m. In the wake of the storm, the air was somewhat drier this morning, with some sun, and better visibility on the ridgeline. While the summit of Snĕžka (meaning "snowy") still had clouds swirling in the stiff southwest wind, we set off for the trailhead.
The wide trail ascends steadily before reaching a trail junction where we turned left/east. After the chairlift summit, the crowd increases. Passing Dom Slaski hostel, the sinuous ascent steepened, crossing the border multiple times. The summit trail was lined with chains to hang onto in the wind and clouds, the wind intensifying at higher altitudes.The lively crowd on this Thursday morning (1) seemed completely unbothered by the scudding clouds and strong winds, steady at 30+ MPH (gale force), and gusting close to 50 (2). People of all ages were out enjoying the day.
After 3.5 miles and 2,600 vertical feet from Karpacz, Poland, we reached Snĕžka, the tallest peak in Czechia. In addition to a weather station and chapel on the Polish side, a bistro offered food on the Czech side. The gondola from Czechia to the summit was closed due to the high winds, presumably reducing the number of visitors today. About an hour on the (relatively) large and flat summit was enough time to soak in the atmosphere, to enjoy the views (2), and to practice bracing ourselves against the wind.
There are multiple trails back to Karpacz. We opted for the longer Polish/Czech Friendship Trail (3) (4) east along the ridge, which was fairly clear; Snĕžka itself was blocking the wind and clouds. The crowd thinned out as we descended slowly, even enjoying some views into Czechia in the lee of the mountain. After a modest rise to Czarna Kopa, the descent steepened until Bouda Jelenka, serving more soup. While the Bouda/Hostel is in Czechia, the picnic tables are in Poland.
The wide trail ascends steadily before reaching a trail junction where we turned left/east. After the chairlift summit, the crowd increases. Passing Dom Slaski hostel, the sinuous ascent steepened, crossing the border multiple times. The summit trail was lined with chains to hang onto in the wind and clouds, the wind intensifying at higher altitudes.The lively crowd on this Thursday morning (1) seemed completely unbothered by the scudding clouds and strong winds, steady at 30+ MPH (gale force), and gusting close to 50 (2). People of all ages were out enjoying the day.
After 3.5 miles and 2,600 vertical feet from Karpacz, Poland, we reached Snĕžka, the tallest peak in Czechia. In addition to a weather station and chapel on the Polish side, a bistro offered food on the Czech side. The gondola from Czechia to the summit was closed due to the high winds, presumably reducing the number of visitors today. About an hour on the (relatively) large and flat summit was enough time to soak in the atmosphere, to enjoy the views (2), and to practice bracing ourselves against the wind.
There are multiple trails back to Karpacz. We opted for the longer Polish/Czech Friendship Trail (3) (4) east along the ridge, which was fairly clear; Snĕžka itself was blocking the wind and clouds. The crowd thinned out as we descended slowly, even enjoying some views into Czechia in the lee of the mountain. After a modest rise to Czarna Kopa, the descent steepened until Bouda Jelenka, serving more soup. While the Bouda/Hostel is in Czechia, the picnic tables are in Poland.
Turning left/north into Poland, an open area suggested a fire sometime in the not-too-distant past. Descent was via the Plomnica river down to Karpacz, returning to a different part of town than where we began. Another 300 feet up to a hotel brought today's total to 11 miles, 3,100 foot gain, and 3,700 foot descent.
(1) Most hikers came partway up on the chairlift.
(2) The vistas were mainly into Poland. The wind was pushing the moisture up the southwest (Czech) side of the summit, limiting visibility in that direction.
(3) Before their accession to the border-control-less Shengen zone in 2007, the two countries maintained border posts on the ridge. As near as I could discern (a), on the ridge east of Dom Slaski (including the summit of Snĕžka), you were considered to be in Czechia for border control purposes, regardless of your actual location. Czechs could therefore freely visit their country's high point, even though half of the summit is in Poland. East of Dom Slaski, you were considered to be in Poland.
(a) I had an old map denoting the border post locations of the former border posts.
(4) I greeted people with either Dzien Dobre (Polish) or Dobrý Den (Czech). Judging by the more common Dzien Dobre response, I surmised there were more Poles on the ridge today.
Wide path near trailhead
Glimpse of blue sky
Steeper trail was stone paved
Up towards the chairlift summit
Sněžka up there somewhere in the clouds
At Równia pod Śnieżką, ready for the summit trail
Up the summit trail
Upwind view into Czechia from the summit trail
The trail crossed the border numerous times
Almost at the summit. The round building is a Polish weather observatory
Views downwind to Poland
Upwind into Czechia
Gusty winds
The gondola up from Czechia closed due to high winds
Tibetan prayer flags blowing in the wind
Chapel on the Polish side
Official summit post
Glimpse of blue sky from Sněžka summit
Descening to ridge trail east
Stay on the trail & protect the birds.
View into Czechia with Snĕžka blocking the swirling clouds
Still above treeline, but low bushes appear on the descent
Looking back to Sněžka
Into Poland
The Polish-Czech friendship trail on thr ridge summit. Note the border marker; the ridge was a natural border for centuries, separating the Hohenzollern Dynasty (Prussia/ Germany) and Habsburg lands before World War I.
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