Sněžka

August 20, 2026

A strong thunderstorm with vivid lightning rolled through about 2 a.m. In the wake of the storm, the air was somewhat drier thus morning, there was some sun, and much of the ridgeline was visible. While the summit of Snĕžka still had clouds swirling in the stiff southwest wind, we set off for the trailhead.

The wide trail ascending steadily before reaching a trail junction where we turned left/east. After the Kopa chairlift summit, the crowd grew materially. Passing Dom Slaska hostel, the sinuous ascent steepened, crossing the border multiple times. The summit trail was lined with chains to hang onto in the wind and clouds, the wind intensifying at higher altitudes.The lively crowd on this Thursday morning (1) seemed completely unbothered by the scudding clouds and strong winds, steady at 30+ MPH (gale force), while gusting closer to 50 (2). People of all ages were out enjoying the day.

After 3.5 miles and 2,600 vertical feet from Karpacz, Poland, we reached Snĕžka, the tallest peak in Czechia. In addition to a weather station and chapel on the Polish side, a bistro had food on offer on the Czech side. The gondola from Czechia to the summit was closed today due to the high winds, presumably reducing the number of visitors today. About an hour on the (relatively) large and flat summit was enough time to soak in the atmosphere, to enjoy the views (2), and to practice bracing ourselves against the wind.

There are multiple trails back to Karpacz. We opted for the longer Polish/Czech Friendship Trail (3) (4) east along the ridge, which was fairly clear; Snĕžka itself was blocking the wind and clouds. The crowd thinned out as we descended slowly, even enjoying some views into Czechia in the lee of the mountain. After a modest rise to Czarna Kopa, the descent steepened until  Bouda Jelenka, serving more soup. While the Bouda/Hostel is in Czechia, the picnic tables are in Poland.

Turning left/north into Poland, an open area suggested a fire sometime in the not-too-distant past. Descent was via the Plomnica river down to Karpacz, returning to a different part of town than where we began. Another 300 feet up to a hotel brought today's total to 11 miles, 3,100 foot gain, and 3,700 foot descent.

(1) Most hikers came partway up on the chairlift.

(2) The vistas were mainly into Poland. The wind was pushing the moisture up the southwest (Czech) side of the summit, limiting visibility in that direction.

(3) Before their accession to the border-control-less Shengen zone in 2007, the two countries maintained border posts on the ridge. As near as I could discern (a), on the ridge east of Dom Slaski (including the summit of Snĕžka), you were considered to be in Czechia for border control purposes, regardless of your actual location. Czechs could therefore freely visit their country's high point, even though half of the summit is in Poland. East of Dom Slaski, you were considered to be in Poland.

(a) I had an old map denoting the border post locations of the former border posts.

(4) I greeted people with either Dzien Dobre (Polish) or Dobrý Den (Czech). Judging by the more common Dzien Dobre response, I surmised there were more Poles on the ridge today.