March 15, 2018
The morning Tren Jaune ascended to the highest rail station in France, before descending to a little station called Sauto, where I could catch the Train back to La Tour de Carol, where my car was. The ticket taker on the train asked if I really wanted to get off here, as the station was in the middle of nowhere. I was sure, but I was glad when I saw the upbound train come along 20 minutes later.
The narrow gauge "Petite Tren Jaune" (little yellow train) climbs some very steep grades, so the decision was made to build the line with electric power. A hydro-electric dam was built for the purpose, with frequent sub-stations to step down the current from high voltage to 850 volts to avoid the loss of power associated with the transmission of electricity at low voltage. This was very forward thinking in 1903, when the line was started.
Back to the car and the ascent up the Puymoren Pass en route to Andorra. There were beautiful ski areas high in the French Pyrennies that would almost make it worthwhile to take up skiing. On the road up to Andorra, all the cars suddenly stopped for a while (1). This gave me the chance to enjoy the mountain scenery and to notice the group of about 20 people on snowshoes descending from a mountain pass. I also noted evidence of recent small avalanches. Upon arrived at Pas de la Casa in Andorra, I opted for the tunnel to avoid climbing even higher than the 6,820 feet I was already at (2).
The drive across Andorra was downhill the entire time (3). The country is like a continuous ski resort and the Cup Europa championships were being held this week. I had a late lunch in the capital, Andorra la Vella, which was filled with tax-free shops selling luxury goods, perfumes and cigarettes (4) (5).
Upon approaching the Spanish Customs post when leaving Andorra, the officials waved most cars through, but decided to stop me, who looked rather suspicious driving a sort of truck all by myself (6); the back could have been filled with contraband cigarettes. After saying in pidgin Spanish that I was driving a rental car, I figured out how to open the rear doors, and the official seemed satisfied that I was not a smuggler.
(1) I never found out the reason for the traffic high on this mountain pass. There is a border post on the road that cars are normally waived through. I guess they were checked for some period of time today.
(2) I was already pressing my luck in this area in mid-March in an unfamiliar car without snow tires or chains. There was also a sign warning of possible ice on the road further up the mountain pass if I did not take the tunnel.
(3) The capital is 3,000 feet lower than La Pas de la Casa, where I entered the country.
(4) The tax haven status of Andorra (which is not in the E.U., despite being completely surrounded by Spain and France) is apparently a major driver of the economy.
(5) Judging by the large size and number of duty-free shops in most European airports, this type of shopping appears to be quite popular.
(6) I had booked a small, 2 door car. Upon arrival at the rental counter in Barcelona, the agent was quite insistent that I needed to upgrade to an automatic transmission because I am an American. She then tried to upsell me a larger car, a collission damage waiver, and a plan to give me a 2 liter bottle of water if I spilled a 1 liter bottle when going around a curve (a). The agent punished me for not buying anything extra by giving me a vehicle that managed to combine the worst features of an SUV, mini van and delivery truck. The vehicle turned what could have been a really fun drive up mountain passes in a small car into something much duller.
(a) Perhaps I made the last one up. I stop listening to rental car people after a while.
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