March 10, 2018
A warm spring day as I rode the train from Craiova to Alexandria, with a change at Risiori Nord. I was expecting to take the train all the way to Zimnicea, but the station master said something that sounded like "Zimnicea dorma." The route of the train was recently cut back, with its last stop now at Alexandria (1).
I was hoping for a taxi to take me from Alexandria station to Zimnicea, but there were no taxis at the train station. I walked a few blocks to where I saw a tall steeple, and found a taxi stand. Despite my best miming skills, it took a minute for the driver to realize I actually wanted him to take me (2). I said "bacul Bulgaria" (Bulgaria boat) to let him know where in Zimnicea I needed to go.
Upon arrival at Zimnicea, he took a left toward the middle of town, I knew he was going the wrong way, so I said again "bacul Bulgaria." He turned on his GPS, which was actually not necessary; I had seen signs for "ferry boat" (3) and directed him (by pointing) to the ferry landing (you basically drive toward the Danube and stop when the road ends) (4).
While waiting for the ferry, I shared a large pretzel I had in my pocket with some stray dogs that were milling about. The Iranian truckers who were also waiting for the ferry gave the dogs some of their very flat, dry bread. The Danube here is quite busy with large barges plying the river.
I cleared outbound immigration and boarded the ferry. One truck (of the 3 waiting) drove onto the ferry, then the deck hand took off the dock lines. This seemed odd, but I realized the boat was simply moving back the width of one truck to line up the space on the deck with the loading ramp. Simple, but quite effective, and no doubt easier than trying to maneuver the 18 wheelers on the boat.
Upon arrival at Bulgarian immigration, they seemed happy (but a bit surprised) to find an American walking off the ferry amidst the Iranian trucks. I greeted them with my best "zdravete" and "blagodaria" (thanks) and the official said with a big smile "have a good day." I gingerly walked through the truck scale, made my way past the cranes unloading coal off barges, climbed the bluff into town, and found my hotel.
(1) Less than two weeks ago, there was an unusual snow storm in this area. Somehow there was a hole in the floor of the train coach from Zimnicea, which filled the car with blowing snow. I don't know if this is why the train no longer goes all the way to Zimnicea.
(2) He understood Zimnicea just fine. I had to point at myself, tap the taxi trunk and point in the direction of Zimnicea before he understood I wanted him to take me.
(3) Perhaps this is why he did not understand initially when I used the Romanian word for boat (bacul), rather than the English word "ferry boat" (a). I don't think the cabbie even knew there was a ferry at Zimnicea.
(a) This phrase is one of at least three English phrases that are in very common use in Romanian. The other two I have frequently noticed are "non-stop" (applied to restaurants that are open from breakfast through dinner) and "second hand," as in used cars.
(4) Coincidentally, but unknown to me at the time, Zimnicea to Svishtov was the route used by Russian troops to cross the Danube at the outset of the Russo-Turkish war of 1877-1878, which is the theme of tomorrow's visit to Shipka Pass
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