Nordeste

February 16, 2020

There were breaks in the clouds as we drive north from Ponta Delgada, then along the northern coastal road. There was rain and low cloud cover for most of the drive. We had a nice cafe com leite at a cafe overlooking the 7 arches bridge in the small town of Nordeste in the northeast (naturally) corner of the Island. 

A sign pointed toward the Farol (lighthouse) Arnel down a steep road; we opted to walk. There were tiny houses, which seemed to be a mixture of fishing shacks and seasonal cottages. Below the lighthouse was a tall waterfall and a small fishing port. 

Further south, the Miradouru (lookout point) Ponta do Sossego consisted of immaculately-maintained gardens with manicured lawns, tidy paths and colorful flowers. There was a poem inscribed on a tile mosaic written by a poet who was born in Fall River, Mass. (1) (2). The gardens are home to a number of healthy, well-fed cats.

Getting to another lookout involved driving up a rutted, wet and slippery dirt road. While there were no gardens at the Miradouro do Pôr-do-Sol, the views were grand, and the sun was peeking through the clouds. 

The final stop today was at Furnas, which was easily discernable due to the steam (and sulphurous smell) from the volcanic vents. West of town are large pools fed with 100° (F) iron-laden water (3). It took a while to get across town; there were many visitors today due to a Camelia festival. We had a good soak in the thermal pool while it rained and the daylight waned. Eventually, a guy with a flashlight came and told us it was time to go (4).

At dinner back in Ponta Delgada (spicy chicken piri-piri), we asked our waiter about his excellent English. "My dad is from Fall River" he replied.

(1) There is also a monument in Fall River presenting his poems on tile. 

(2) There is a large population of people with Azorean ancestry in Southeastern Massachusetts, which explains the daily flights from Boston.

(3) We brought old bathing suits due to the iron.

(4) Arriving at 5:30, with the pools closing at 6:00, we decidedly go in anyways; the man at the ticket booth said we could stay late. The pools remain open late for guests at the adjacent hotel, who walk to the pools wearing grey bathrobes. Our pile of clothes gave us away as day visitors.

Nordeste

Brook outlet below Nordeste

The walk down to the lighthouse

The Arnel Lighthouse

Below the lighthouse

The walk back up

View of the lighthouse later through the mist

At the Ponta do Sossego Viewpoint and Garden

There were even views at the viewpoint

At the next road side vista

Views from Miradouro do Pôr-do-Sol

View of Povoação

Thermal pool, Furnas

Caldeira Velha

February 15. 2020

The Azores Archipeligo was uninhabited until discovered by the Portuguese in 1427. The volcanic islands are located about 1,000 miles west of mainland Portugal. Due to the President's day holiday, my wife and I had four days off in a row. So, we decided to take a flight from Boston to Ponta Delgada on São Miguel Island. Due to tail winds from a strong storm in the Atlantic (1), the flight took just a little over 4 hours. 

Our early morning arrival revealed a verdant landscape reminiscent of Ireland (2), only warmer. Driving east, we turned off at the road to Logoa (Lake) Fogo, and soon entered a thick fog. At one point, the sides of the road fell away, and it appeared we were about to drive off a cliff. The car strained up the hill, and downshifting to first gear being necessary at various points. There were turnouts on the road, presumably with views of the lake; we only saw fog.

We descending to the north side of the Island and found the Caldeira Velha (old caldeira), a small park where there are warm pools in which the boiling water emerging from the ground is mixed with surface water. Being a Saturday, many locals were enjoying a good soak. 

Descending to Rebeira Grande, we had lunch at Praia (beach) Santa Barbára and watched the stong surf rolling in from the North. The west wind created spume which blew off the tops of the breaking waves. While there was a lifeguard on duty, the one surfer we saw get suited up, took a look at the roiling sea and left. 

Further east is a tea plantation at Porto Formoso (3). Two Chinese farmers were brought to the Island in 1878 to establish tea agriculture, and São Miguel remains the only place in Europe where tea is commercially cultivated. 

There was a big sign for Lagoa San Bras, so we drove up to the small lake. A drive back west along the shore provided dramatic views of the crashing surf on the north coast. We cut back across the Island to Ponta Delgada before sunset.

(1) Earlier in the week, there was a speed record set on a flight from JFK to London.

(2) São Miguel is nicknamed Ilha Verde (the green island), like Ireland being called the Emerald Isle. 

(3) Formosa was also the name the Portuguese used for Taiwan.

Resident cat, Caldeira Velha

The pools

I puzzled over this pictogram. 

I thought it was "No sticking darts in whipped cream."

The surf at Praia Santa Barbara

Tree-lined road

Tile mosaic, tea plantation

At the tea (chá) plantation

At Lagoa de São Bras

Views along the north coast

Lighthouse (Farol do Cintrão) 

Views from the lighthouse