Wanderings: Nordeste

February 16, 2020

There were breaks in the clouds as we drive north from Ponta Delgada, then along the northern coastal road. There was rain and low cloud cover for most of the drive. We had a nice cafe com leite at a cafe overlooking the 7 arches bridge in the small town of Nordeste in the northeast (naturally) corner of the Island.

A sign pointed toward the Farol (lighthouse) Arnel down a steep road; we opted to walk. There were tiny houses, which seemed to be a mixture of fishing shacks and seasonal cottages. Below the lighthouse was a tall waterfall and a small fishing port.

Further south, the Miradouru (lookout point) Ponta do Sossego consisted of immaculately-maintained gardens with manicured lawns, tidy paths and colorful flowers. There was a poem inscribed on a tile mosaic written by a poet who was born in Fall River, Mass. (1) (2). The gardens are home to a number of healthy, well-fed cats.

Getting to another lookout involved driving up a rutted, wet and slippery dirt road. While there were no gardens at the Miradouro do Pôr-do-Sol, the views were grand, and the sun was peeking through the clouds.

The final stop today was at Furnas, which was easily discernable due to the steam (and sulphurous smell) from the volcanic vents. West of town are large pools fed with 100° (F) iron-laden water (3). It took a while to get across town; there were many visitors today due to a Camelia festival. We had a good soak in the thermal pool while it rained and the daylight waned. Eventually, a guy with a flashlight came and told us it was time to go (4).

At dinner back in Ponta Delgada (spicy chicken piri-piri), we asked our waiter about his excellent English. "My dad is from Fall River" he replied.

(1) There is also a monument in Fall River presenting his poems on tile.

(2) There is a large population of people with Azorean ancestry in Southeastern Massachusetts, which explains the daily flights from Boston.

(3) We brought old bathing suits due to the iron.

(4) Arriving at 5:30, with the pools closing at 6:00, we decidedly go in anyways; the man at the ticket booth said we could stay late. The pools remain open late for guests at the adjacent hotel, who walk to the pools wearing grey bathrobes. Our pile of clothes gave us away as day visitors.