The day flight from Europe to Johannesburg avoids two overnight flights in a row when coming from Boston. After a good night's sleep at an airport hotel, we rented a car and headed east toward eSwatini. Near the border crossing at Ngwenya (1) is Swazi Glass blowing, recycling broken glass into drinking glasses, animal figurines, &c.
Downhill into the Kingdom (1), we got off the highway at the Ezulwini Valley, heading to the Mlilwane Wildlife reserve. Mlilwane means little fire in siSwati, for the fires kindled by lightning. A former cattle ranch, Ted Reilly transformed the property into a reserve, reintroducing various antelope species that had gone locally extinct.
Passing through the roan antelope (2) enclosure (3), we drove up Mlilwane Hill to the former owner"s house, converted to a nice lodge. The enclosure in which the lodge sits is home to the waterbok and Duiker (blue and red) antelope. We dined outdoors by the fire, accompanied by a Belgian family, while the host (4) told us about Swazi customs.
Next morning, we headed out towards Mt. Nyonyane (5). Rising 1,000 feet from the valley floor, Nyonyane is the high point of the park. Ruth, the hostess, told us that we would need to climb a ladder over a fence on the trail. I'm glad she did; I would have been uncertain about the propriety of doing so otherwise.
Descending Mlilwane Hill, we climbed over the fence, traversed a small valley, and began our ascent to Nyonyane. The well-marked trail ascended steadily before steepening at the exposed rocks. Turning right at a trail junction (6), some rock scrambling was required to reach the open summit, offering sweeping 360° views. We lingered to enjoy the views, noting smoke rising from small fires, and a generally smoky haze to the south as the dry season neared its end.
Descending on the same trail, we arrived back at the lodge for a mid-afternoon departure from Mlilwane. Total elevation gain of 1,200 on a four-mile (round trip) hike.
(1) Ngwenya means crocodile in siSwati, and the town is named for the shape of the mountain just north of town.
(2) Basically an absolute monarchy, eSwatini was until recently known as Swaziland.
(3) Now very rare in Southern Africa, the roan population at Mlilwane has expanded from the six roan brought in from a London Zoo.
(4) While breaking up the land, the enclosures (measured in square kilometers) are better for keeping the animals in contact with each other to encourage breeding and to protect them from competing with other species for forage.
(5) My wife was pleased to meet Ruth, the resident chef. I had raved about her rolls from my last visit, and Ruth was pleasantly surprised to hear my wife knew about her cooking.
(6) Nyonyane is also known as Execution Rock, for its historic use. Those condemned to death threw themselves off the east-facing cliff, prodded by warriors with spears.
(7) Turning left, the main trail follows the ridge to the west.
On the flight to Johannesburg:
The trackless Sahara
Sunset over the Congo
Dusk
Waning gibbous moonrise over the Congo basin
At Ngwenya Glass blowing:
Literally
At Mlilwane:
Mt Nyonyane: Our destination
Trail goes on a ladder over the fence
North to Sheba's breasts
West into the reserve
East across the Ezulwini Valley
Late winter blooms
Back over the fence
Waterbok
Blue Duiker
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