January 9, 2026
The flight path from Hong Kong flew directly over Hiroshima Bay on this clear day. The airport is a quite small and a very long way from the city. While there is a direct bus that takes about an hour, I opted for the bus-train combo (1). The train ride passed through quiet towns before arriving at Hiroshima.
A wooded ridge to the north of the station beckoned. In addition to a city map, the local tourist bureau gave me a stylized sort-of hiking map of the wooded ridge. A short stroll through city before the short, but steep, climb up 400+ steps (and as many feet of elevation gain). The trail had temples and zen sayings along the way.
At the summit of Mount Futaba (2), the Stupa/Pagoda of Peace calmly reflected the late afternoon sun. A few others were enjoying this sunny winter's day on the ridge. I descended via a road in the gathering darkness.
(1) I thought I had purchased a combination ticket. I discovered at the unstaffed train station I had not and the railway ticket machine only took local cash, which I lacked (there was no ATM either at the airport or the station). A kind local man bought me a ticket (a), refusing payment in any currency I had, or even my offer of assistance with his bags.
(a) Two locals actually offered to get the ticket; kind people here. (Although not the customs official, who seemed quite concerned I might be smuggling tobacco or gold bullion into Japan. After she searched my bag (i), I did declare I had a gold wedding ring.)
(i) Only the second time my bag was searched by customs in all my years travelling.
(2) At about 450 feet above sea level, I would call it a hill, not call it a mountain. The same character applies to mountains and hills.
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