January 10, 2026
I had a day to spend somewhere between Hiroshima and Fukuoka. Considering Beppu and Mojiko (1), I did not choose wisely. Both offered hiking and sea views, but Mojiko promised railways, a busy shipping channel, a "retro" city center (and a shorter hike). The town website had a hiking map promoting sweeping 360° views of both Honshu and Kyushu Islands from Mt. Kazashi.
I hopped on the Shinkansen bullet train to Kukora, across on Kyushu Island, with a connection to the local train to Mojiko. After dropping my bag, I set out to find the Mount Kazashi trailhead west of town. The trail looked like it had been built well many years ago, with sections built of plastic log-shaped risers. The trail was not marked, had not been maintained in some time, was completely empty, very overgrown and was veering further west than I thought it should. I turned around, and walked east into town to walk up the road.
I encountered one other hiker and three cars on the ascent up the branch-strewn road in this sunny, warm Saturday. The small parking lot had benches that presumably used to offer views and a sign pointing into the woods for the mountain. While the official town map promised 360° views, I was skeptical. The observation deck just east was derelict, with a broken bench and an overgrown view. I was expecting a lovely hike like in Hiroshima yesterday; no such luck. Time to go back down to town. Total distance about 6 miles with 1,300 foot gain (including the aborted original attempt on the overhrown trail).
Back in town, the "Retro" tourist train crossed the road in front of me. I found the Retro station and hopped aboard, following the Kanmon Strait (separating Honshu and Kyushu Islands) for the short ride. Entering the tunnel, the ceiling glowed in the dark with fish pictures not visible in the daylight. While wind had been blowing during the day, it suddenly accelerated as a front approached, creating spray at the sea walls. The temperature fell, and rain began to fall.
A few restaurants were open; I opted for the one with a small line out front. Their speciality is Mojiko pudding, which anywhere else would be called flan. I had a view of the passenger ferry terminal. Either due to the storm front or the lack of passengers, the ferries did not seem to be running, with the ferries bobbing at the dock in the rough surf.
(1) Pronounced with a hard j (as in jump), not like the j in a mojito cocktail, as I soon learned.
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