To Prague, the long way

 October 14, 2025

The original plan for today was to take the substitute bus to Czechia, then catch the train to Mala Skála. A Castle on a bluff at the river narrows here overlooks the town, where I planned to do some hiking. Rain in the forecast made climbing a rocky bluff ill-advised, so I set my course for Liberec, the largest city in the Sudetes, with direct train service (with substitute buses for part of the route) from Szklarska Paręba Górna.

The bus was officially a train, with a conductor from Czesky Drahy riding the bus and checking tickets. The bus reached the pass over the Sudetes at Polana Jakuszycka, where people were practicing nordic skiing (on skis with wheels) and soon thereafter entered Czechia (1). Other than Harrichov, the first town and a ski resort, Czech towns seemed drabber and more industrial than nearby Polish towns, with glass manufacturing common in the region. 

Arriving late at Jablonec nad Nisou (2), the train (which was officially a continuation of our bus journey) was waiting for us. The train continued rolling downhill to Liberec. A quick look at the industrial town convinced me there was no reason to stay overnight, so I headed back to the station and hopped the next train to Prague (3). 

While brighter skies were visible on the train ride to Prague, the rain returned as darkness fell. A long stroll through the wet city went past the Astronomers Tower and over Charles Bridge, before a tram ride back to the hotel ended the day.

(1) The Polish-Czech border is near, but not always at, the official summit if the Sudetes.

(2) A car and bus had crashed in a small town earlier, causing significant delays on the narrow roads and single lane railway underpass.

(3) Actually to Turnov, then a connection (a) to Prague. Even though Liberec is one of the largest cities in Czechia with over 100,000 inhabitants, a direct train to the capital is not available.

(a) With a bus substitute in the middle of the journey. There's a lot of construction on the Czech Railways this summer.

The Polish trains only goes a few stops to the last station in Poland (Polana Jakuszycka) due to construction on the Czech Railways. Note the Wysoki summit tower in background.

Swirls of clouds over the Sudetes

Connecting to the train to Liberec at Jablonec nad Nisou

Tracks in Liberec accomodate standard and narrow guage trams

Liberec City Hall

Memorial in Liberec to victims of the Soviet invasion to quash the Prague Spring of 1968

A rainy day in Bohemia

Plaque at Prague Central Station. Wilson's 14 points for the post-WWI world focused on each nationality having its own siveeiegn state. Czechoslovakia emerged from the remnants of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Astronomers' Tower

Prague Castle (Praha Hrad)

Charles Bridge (Karlŭv Most)

Tram ride across the city