Wanderings: Nevada Falls, Yosemite

August 26, 2024

A mile walk from the camp is Curry Village, where we breakfasted and provisioned for a hike up the Merced River Valley. The trailhead is another mile walk further east. The climbing begins near Happy Isles. The first section of the trail is fairly steep, paved to prevent erosion from constant use. About a mile in, the trail crosses the Merced river on a wooden bridge and features views of Vernal Falls, further up river. Water (and flush toilets!) are available here, the last on the trail for a long while. The Mist trail, following the river uphill to Vernal Falls, was closed today for maintenance.

Following the John Muir (1) trail as it ascended the south side of the river valley by a series of switchbacks, the crowd thinned out. Emerging at Clark Point, we had ascended about 1,700 feet. Trying to eat lunch, some sort of bee or wasp swarm emerged form nowhere, smelling our bread and butter; "that's why everybody walks while eating" a woman nearby said. Five-hundred feet below Clark Point lay Vernal Falls, while 700 feet above were Clark Falls, visible from the viewpoint. Opting to proceed to Nevada Falls, our ascent continued. Nearing the Falls, the trail was carved out of a cliffside, from which water dripped onto the trail.

Just above the falls, the trails crosses the river from south to north. A small pool lies to the right, were people were wading, despite the dire warnings. To the left, at the edge teenage boys (who else) were peering over the edge. Further on, a railing guards a ledge with views over the falls. A groups of boys scrambled down, but one held back "I'd rather get CPR with an axe that get any closer to the edge," he said.

The return followed the same route down as up. Chatting with many hikers heading up, we assured them that the view from Clark's Point was worth the effort (1). Overall today, an 8 mile hike with 2,400 foot vertical gain, plus 4 miles roundtrip walk from camp to the trailhead.

(1) John Muir was hired by a hotel owner in the valley (who illegally set up his hotel on public land) to manage his sawmill. While exploring the valley, he became one of the most well-known proponents of conservation in the Sierras (a). In 1890, prompted by his writing, Yosemite was expanded drastically, encompassing the Hetch Hetchy Valley and most of the land between the Valley and the Sequoia grive to the south.

(a) Muir later explored Glacier Bay in Alaska and Mount Ranier in Washington. Both subsequently became National Parks.

(2) After English, the most common languages heard were Spanish and then a tie between French (b) and German.

(b) Walking in the valley, a French family was trying to pass us. "Allez-y" I said. The father replied (in French) that I was the first American he encountered on a long trip to speak any French.