Wanderings: The House of Leaves & a ferry across the Adriatic

January 16, 2024

A flight from Venice (1) to Tirana, Albania this morning. A museum in Tirana, Albania called The "House of Leaves" details surveillance activities during the Communist era. The building was originally a medical clinic, but was taken over by the the Segurimi (secret police( due to location in central Tirana near most government offices and the telephone exchange. The museum provides good context to understand 20th century Albanian history and the extensive paranoia of the "only true Communist country in the world" (after the rejection of Stalinism in Europe (mid 1950s) and the death of China's Mao in 1976).

Across the street is the post-communism Orthodox Cathedral, as the original was razed in the 1960s because all Albanians were athiest during communism, whether they wanted to be or not.

The coastal city of Durres features a Roman Amphitheater (c.100 C. E.), and walls originally from the Byzantine era, with the foundations of the walls dating to post-earthquake 1273 C.E. The current walls date from the period of control by the Republic of Venice (1394 to 1501).

The "Venetian Tower" is a largely modern structure, with extensive rebuilding after a 2019 earthquake. The small door opened when we pushed on it; we were invited to climb the tower to we enjoy the view. While the venue officially closed at 4:00, the host invited us to stay for a virtual reality experience featuring a Roman era view of the town and traveler Edward Lear's painted view of the city from 1848.

As night fell, we headed to the ferry terminal for our overnight boat across the Adriatic to back Italy at the port city of Bari.

(1) Not the real Venice Airport, the flight was from Treviso, where the discount carriers fly. An easy 1/2 train ride from Venice Santa Lucia station to Treviso.