May 26, 2018
My kayaking guide started talking over breakfast about the Rwandan Genocide of 1994 (1). While I had not enquired, it is the defining event in modern Rwandan history, and most travelers probably ask him about it (2). He was living in the DRC (where he was born), for most of the time, but moved to Rwanda toward the end of the 100 day Genocide. The violence had spilled across the border and it was safer (a relative term at the time) in Gisenyi than in the DRC. He and his family stayed out of the house on nights with heavy rain, as this is when the Genocidaires (3) usually struck. His wife was an orphan from the genocide.
The Genocide ended when exiled Rwandan forces invaded the country (4). The country has taken strides to recover from the Genocide, including having Genocidaires try to apologize in person to the survivng relatives of the victims (5).
We returned to our kayaks and headed north back to Gisenyi. The wind had backed overnight to the southwest, so we once again had the wind behind us. Because we were at the north end of the lake, there was a lot of fetch, so the waves were 2 to 3 foot rollers that were a lot of fun to paddle through (and occasionally surf down when caught just right). It was a hot day, so I took a quick swim when we arrived back. I said goodbye to Francois and headed south.
I could have headed north on a paved road for about 6 miles before doubling back on the paved road south, or I could take a dirt road shortcut heading directly east for about 3 miles and catch the paved road further down and save some miles. Google recommended the short-cut, although I am sometimes skeptical of Google (6). Having some confidence in my vehicle (and having learned how to work the 4-wheel drive when stuck in the mud 2 days ago), I opted for the shorter route.
I soon discovered the road was steeper than any goat path I had ever seen and strewn about with volcanic rock and holes that threatened to swallow my 4X4. Despite the glimpses I had of spectacular views of the lake far below, I dared not stop to admire the view for fear of not being able to start again. My speed was such that I was able to exchange greetings with virtually every person on the road (of which there were many). I also discovered that seat belts not only protect you in case of accident, they also prevent you from hitting your head on the ceiling of the truck cab while jostling through rock-filled chasms.
Finally, I could see a guardrail: the paved road just up ahead! I and my truck were both still one one piece. A relatively flat (and less rocky section) invited me to stop and enjoy the view. A group of women and kids walking up the road see me stop: he must want to give us a ride, they think. They appear at my passenger side window, speak in Kinyarwanda, point, gesture, &c. I nod my assent and they climb into the bed of the truck. As I drive, they smile, laugh and wave at their friends as we go by. At the intersection with the paved road, I point south towards Kibuye, where I am going. They are heading in that direction also, so they stay with me. After about 10 more minutes (and a few miles uphill), one of the women catches my attention in the side-view mirror and points down, so I stop and let them off.
The road south to Kibuye was opened fairly recently. The project was done by a Chinese road construction company (7). For some reason, they had graded and paved the road before reinforcing the dirt walls surrounding the road, so I had to maneuver around a number of minor land slides.
Upon arrival at Kibuye/Karongi, I stopped to visit the Genocide Memorial Church of St Pierre. Local Tutsis were told during the Genocide to go the church as a safe haven. Thousands were killed by grenades, rifles and machetes. There is now a small memorial outside displaying some skulls and the words (in English) " never again."
The doors to the church were open, and a group was jnside praying the rosary in Kinyarwanda. I heard singing and went to find the source: outside a small chapel across the lane, 3 or 4 groups of people were engaged in what appeared to be choir practice. Soon, the grpup praying the rosary in the church across the lane began to sing as well. A young man approached, ask what I was doing in rough English. I replied "listening" and I continued to do so in the fading light.
(1) In which hundreds of thousands of Tutsis (perhaps a million) were slaughtered by Hutus, often their neighbors. Many people outside the country know nothing of Rwanda other than the genocide.
(2) A similar occurrence happened in Mostar, Bosnia when Alyssa, my guest-house hostess, told me about the brutal ethnic siege of the city in the early 1990s, even though I had not asked. Bosnia is also a place known by many people outside the region only because of ethnic violence.
(3) This word was created In French to described those who perpetrated the Genocide. The weapon of choice for the Genocidaires was usually a machete, which are still ubiquitous in the country and are used to hack away tree branches, &c.
(4) Many of the returning exiles came of age in Uganda, and thus spoke English, which is now an official language of Rwanda (a). English is slowly replacing French, especially among the younger generation. However, I have still found it handy to know a bit of French when interacting with Rwandans, especially in the western part of the country.
(a) The other official languages are Kinyarwanda, Kiswahilli (a Bantu tounge with Arabic influences that is the lingua franca throughout East Africa), and French. Many people in the tourist business speak all four languages.
(5) Foreign Affairs magazine recently had a series of articles about countries confronting their past; Rwanda was considered one of the more successful countries in doing so.
(6) Google maps once tried to send me down a drainage ditch outside Quito, Ecuador. I ignored the directions.
(7) Western institutions, such as the International Monetary Fund have traditionally funded such infrastructure project. However, the Chinese make no demands about governance reforms or democracy, and ask no pesky questions about human rights. Chinese-built railways have recently opened in Ethiopia, Djibouti, and Kenya and more are planned or underway.
No comments:
Post a Comment