July 10, 2017
We timed our visit to Split so that we would be leaving on Monday, one of the two days a week there is a flight from Split to Pula. Pula is at southern end of the Istrian Pennunsula, and is a very long trip by land. There were 17 passengers (which was a full plane), only 6 of whom actually got off at Pula.
Pula is best known for remains from the Roman Empire. We visited the Temple of Augustus, built somewhere between 2 B.C.E. and 14 C.E. The structure is largely intact from that time, except for the west wall, which collapsed and was rebuilt in the 1700s and the roof of the portico, which was hit by a stray bomb during an air raid in the Second World War (the target was a large shipyard nearby). Inside the temple, there is a museum featuring sculptures and headstones, etc. from about the same time as the temple was built.
The city also has remains of a Roman-era wall, and various arches and gates. Down an alleyway, then across what looks like someone's driveway is a tile mosaic that was once the floor of the main room of a wealthy Roman's house. The mosaic is about 6 feet below the current street level and has geometric designs and fish in one side. The other side depicts the Punishment of Dirce, a scene from Greek mythology. The mosaic was exposed when a stray bomb hit a house during a WW2 air raid.
The most-well-known feature of Pula is the well-preserved Roman Amphitheatre /colosseum dating from the First Century C.E. The ancient structure dominates the skyline of the city.
By coincidence, we were in Pula one the few days in July when there was a Spectecal Antica, a recreation of the type of show put on to entertain the Romans. The show was quite fun with mimes, fire jugglers, a recreation of a Roman battle against the Istrians and gladiator fights. According to the Master of Ceremonies, this was the mix of entertainment on offer during Roman times. Apparently, there really are modern people who train and fight gladiator style, absent the real blood and death (1). When a gladiator was vanquished, the audience got to vote with shouting and hand gestures whether the losing gladiator would be allowed to live or be put to death.The final decision was made by the emperor, who was present, of course.
We stayed at the Hotel Riviera. The formerly grand hotel was built in 1908, with wide marble staircases and an elaborate entrance hall. At this point, they accommodate just a few guests on the fourth floor, where there are nice views of the Amphiteater. It was a bit creepy climbing the un-lit staircase up to the fourth floor at night.
(1) Although an ambulance was present and we did see one gladiator being attended to by an EMT after his fight.
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