Adriatic: Mostar

July 5, 2017

We took the morning train to Mostar, with very nice mountain scenery on the ride. The train itself is a modern set from Spain that Bosnia has had for only 3 weeks. There was a lively discussion among the cafe car attendant, conductor, and security guard about which machine in the kitchen to use when I ordered a cappucino. 

Our first visit was to Mehmet Pasha Mosque to climb the minaret and enjoy the view. The mosque, like many buildings in East Mostar was severly damaged during the second siege of Mostar (1) by the VHO (The local Croat paramilitary) from 1993 to 1994. 

We had a great view of Stari Most (the old bridge), which gives the city its name. The bridge was built in 1566 and was destroyed in 1993 during the second siege of Mostar. The bridge was subsequently rebuilt using the same materials and methods as the original.

We walked to West Mostar this afternoon. We climbed the campanille (bell tower) at the Catholic Church, which is located just west of the front line during the second siege of Mostar during the Yugoslav wars. We noticed that trees were larger on this (non-besieged) west side of town. The trees in the east were younger as many of the older trees had been chopped down for fuel during the siege. We came across the Croatian cultural center and were surprised to see flying in a prominent position the (rather threatening) flag of the HVO, which were the paramiltary forces which destroyed much of East Mostat and the iconic old bridge during the secind siege.

We had a nice chat with Alissa, the owner of our guest house. She stayed in Mostar during both sieges, living in the basement while the house was drstroyed above her. After the war many people left Mostar as a result of limited enployment opportunities. "They built mosques and churches after the war, they should have built factories instead, so the young people could have jobs" Alissa said.

(1) In the first siege of Mostar, the Boniaks and Croats together relieved the city from the Serb siege. The Croats then turned against their former Bosniak allies and besieged East Mostar from their neighborhood in West Mostar.

Views from the train to Mostar

Interior detail, Mehmet Pasha Mosque

View of Stari Most (Old Bridge) from the top of the minaret at Mehmet Pasha Mosque

Frescoe of Plum Tree, Tanner's Mosque. Original from 1600s

View from bell tower of the former front line during the siege of Mostar (1993 to 1994)

Common tree size and age, West Mostar

Flag of the HVO, which was the besieging army, West Mostar.

Common tree size and age, East Mostar

View of minaret at dusk; Crooked Bridge is in the foreground.