Wanderings: The Castle at Buda

March 15, 2026

The day began at a small square in Budapest where the Ukrainian Embassy had sponsored an art exhibition of children's work entitled: The Invisible Wounds of Childhood in Ukraine containing many moving works.

Today is the national holiday celebrating the uprising against Austrian/Habsburg rule in 1848 (1). While the revolution failed, the uprising is considered the origin of the modern Hungarian state (2) and is celebrated with a National holiday on March 15. In 1867 the Hungarians achieved self-government. Simultaneously, the Dual Monarchy was created, with the Habsburg ruler becoming Austrian Emperor and King of Hungary. Most of the buildings and architecture of Modern Budapest date from this period.

We joined a walking tour led by Esther, a Budapest native, who tried to teach us some Hungarian words. She pointed put that the top part the cross on St. Steven's Basilica is at 96 meters, in honor of the establishment of the Hungarian state in 896. No building in Pest reaches higher. The tour normally ends at the Parliament, but today the area was unusually busy in preparation for a speech by the Hungarian President in honor of the National Holiday.

We walked along the Danube on this early Spring day before crossing the river on the Chain Bridge. After trying more Goulash, the funicular took us up for a walk on the grounds of the Buda Palace (3), and north past the Presidential Palace.

Back across the river, we hopped aboard a river cruise as dusk turned to night. The city and bridges were festooned with red, green, and white lighting in honor of the holiday. The day ended with a string orchestra concert at St Steven's Basilica (4).

(1) Revolutionary movements sprung up throughout Europe in 1848.

(2) The Hungarians (Magyars) arrived in the Danube basin in the 9th century, with the state established in 896. In 1526, Hungary was divided between the Austrians and Ottomans, with the Austrians gaining full control in 1699.

(3) Now containing an art museum, we opted to stay outside due to the fine weather and the long lines on this free-admission holiday.

(4) No Hungarian composers tonight, the orchestra opting for familiar compositions by Bach, List, Schubert, and Vivaldi.

The exhibition The Hidden Wounds of war.

Statue of Elizabeth, Empress of Austria and then Queen of Hungary, known locally as Sisi, she was sympathetic toward the Hungarians.

The Ballpoint pen was invented in Budapest by man named Biro. Biro is what the English often call the pens; now I know why.

Views across the Danube to Buda

The Austro-Hungarian era policeman's belly is rubbed for luck.

Belle-epoque era architectural flourishes in Pest

Controversial statue (2014) depicting Hungary as the victim of Nazi Germany. Hungary actually fought alongside the Axis powers, hoping to regain some territory lost at the end of WW I, and sending the Hungarian Jews to Auschwitz.

Informal memorials of Jews transported to the death camps by the war-time Hungarian authorities in front of the controversial statue

Glory to the Soviet Liberators memorial erected during the communist era. The statue has remained in place in deference to Russian sensitivities, but is now flanked by a statue of US President Reagan, shown below.