Created in 1958, the city of Aktau lies on the Caspian Sea in Westen Kazahkstan. Uranium was nearby, and the city was created to house the miners supporting the Soviet nuclear program. The location of, and even existence of, the city were closely-guarded state secrets for a number of years to protect against attack by the decadent Western imperialists. Rainfall is so scarce here that water was trucked in for the first few years until a desalination plant was built.
My hotel appeared to date to Soviet times and nobody on staff spoke English; communication was via translations on the phone. I arrived bleary-eyed at about 4:30 a.m. after an hour-long flight from Baku. Setting out for a walk to the sea later, the non-descript housing blocks revealed the city's Soviet past, when it was populated mainly by Ukrainians.
Along the sea coast, a fancy new hotel has recently been built (1), large houses rise above the gates protecting them. and more seaside apartment high-rises are being built. Kazahkstan is fairly wealthy because of the Caspian oil, but the wealth is just starting to appear here, together with some Russian money (which currently has limited investment options in the West). Trying to encourage investment and tourism (2), the city has dubbed itself the "Caspian Riviera."
The Skal'naya Tropa (СКАЛЬНАЯ ТРОПА) is a seaside boardwalk below the cliffs on the shore of the Caspian. Stopping for a snack (looked like cheesy bread) to eat along the seaside, I headed south along the boardwalk, which was built in 2019. Reproduction carvings in the sandstone cliffs reflect those in the Mauntarya dessert inland from the city. Locals out for stroll had bundled up much more than I, but we were all enjoying a walk along the Caspian.
At the south end of the walk, I enjoyed soup (same pronunciation in Russian: счп) and some wine before heading back inland to the hotel.
(1) Excellent latte there.
(2) At immigration early this morning, the official asked why I had come to Aktau, which sees mainly Kazahks or oil men (I am neither). Replying "I've never been to Kazahkstan before," she replied with a wry smile and stamped my passport.
Welcome to Aktau
Dual purpose apartment block/lighthouse
Near the start of the boardwalk
Bohemian waxwing
Walk back to hotel
Leaving Aktau
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