Sunday, March 9, 2025
Friday, March 7, 2025
The Great Pyramid at Giza
March 7, 2025
Shared taxis in Cairo are old VW busses, invariably with the engine cover up to keep the (air-cooled) engine from overheating.
Khafre Pyramid illuminated during evening show
Rising about 400 feet above the west bank of the Nile (1), the Giza Plateau was considered an appropriate burial place for the Pharoahs of the Egyptian Old Kingdom.The great pyramid of Giza c. 2,600 B.C.E., once stood 480 feet high on top of the plateau, now eroded to about 455 feet. It was the tallest structure in the world for 3,800 years (2). The internal structure of large granite blocks (now exposed due to erosion of the limestone covering) was quarried on the east bank of the Nile and brought near to the site by Canal. How the 20 ton blocks were lifted to the site remains unknown. Recent excavations at a worker vampire suggest about 10,000 people were employed at the construction site.
I bought a ticket to venture inside the Great Pyramid, tomb of Khufu/Cheops. Being quite crowded, I waited outside for people to reëmerge (2). The first 100 yards or so were standing height before a stone-lined narrow passage, about 3.5 feet by 3.5 feet and angled upwards at 26°. An official at the bottom was (I thought) controlling traffic so people only went up or down, but not simultaneously; I was wrong. Crouching along the 130 foot passage, we were passed by people going down, and had to halt in a crouched position. As soon as the passage opened up, I turned around and headed back down, glad to get back to the warn sunshine and fresh air (3).
Visitors to the large pyramid complex are expected to have a guide (4). Walid was quite knowledgeable, even telling me detailed stories about distinctive art from the Ahknaten period, even though Ahknaten's Capital was much further south. The second largest pyramid at Giza is the tomb of Khafre, with smaller Pyramids for his three queens.
The Sphinx (5) is at the historic entrance to the tomb complex, guarding the site. The base is made from granite blocks, while the (somewhat eroded) head was of limestone. A stone causeway leads from here up to the main Pyramid complex. At this location, the pharoahs were mummified. All of the organs were removed from the body, except the heart. The heart was weighed against a feather at the entrance to the afterlife. A light heart meant a good life had been lived, earning entrance to the afterlife.
Agter the pyramids, I thoroughly enjoyed the demonstration of papyrus making. The process consists simply of flattening the reeds and squeezing out the 3% sugar The papyrus, having almost no sugar, can last for centuries, as there is nothing for the bacteria that destroys most paper to feed on. One of the disadvantages of a guide is that he brings you to his friends' shops; I was uninterested in the metal trinkets, the perfume, and the clothing store.
Back at the hotel, a lively conversation ensued about when to go to Cairo for a sail. The drive takes anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours, depending on traffic. After vigorous debate among the driver, guide, the hotel clerk, and someone on the phone, Kareem and I left straight away.
After 45 minutes, we were at a dock on the east bank of the Nile. Captain Mahmoud took me out on his Felucca (The Golden Eagle) for a sunset sail. He brought aboard an Iftar (6) box; I was surprised when he handed the box to me for a meal (7), and when he called me over to the tiller as he hauled on the mainsail halyard. The steady Northwest wind required one tack to get back to the dock to the bank. Hopping off the bow, I handed Mahmoud a ten dollar tip, with which he was utterly delighted.
I had the car and driver for a few more hours, so we went to the Khan el-Khalili bazaar in Old Cairo, where there was quite a buzz on the Friday night during Ramadan. The warren of narrow streets was filled with a myriad of shops. One shop owner beckoned we with: "We have it," even though he had no idea what (if anything) I wanted. Kareem's English consisted of two words: yes and no.
The hotel roof has a good view of the Pyramids for the evening light show. The English narrator (8) tells the story of the Pharoahs, as their Pyramids are illuminated.
(1) West is where the sun sets, and hence symbolic of death.
(2) Lincoln Cathedral in England, opened in 1311 was said to have a spire 525 feet tall.
(2) A car and driver (Kareem) for 8 hours, plus four hours with my own personal guide (Walid), cost about what I make in an hour at home.i have found it quite common in less developed places that the driver and guide are never the same. We got a late start (about 1:00) due to the very late arrival of my flight and because Walid was attending mid-day Mosque services on Friday, the Muslim holy day.
(3) There were heavy rains and cold temperatures yesterday.
(4) The interior had only recently reopened after a hour closing at midday, and Friday is the busiest day anyways.
(5) No-one knows what the lion-body, human head structure was called at the time of its construction. Sphinx is from the (much later) Greek meaning to bind together.
(6) The name of the sunset meal when the Ramadan fast is ended.
(7) Rice, beef and spicy pickled carrots; yum.
(8) His voice sounded like a news reel announcer from the late 1940s extolling the plucky, freedom loving people battling the godless communists
The Giza Pyramid complex, view from hotel
Khufu/Cheops pyramid (The Great Pyramid of Giza)
Panorama point
Pyramid of Khafre. The smaller Pyramids behind the camel are for his queens.
The Sphinx
Mario, the owner of the papyrus shop was too happy; I must have overpaid.
Sailing the Nile at sunset on a Felucca
Al-Azhar Mosque
Al Emam El Hussein Mosque, view from Khan el-Khalili bazaar
A 2 hour flight from Luton Airport to Luton Airport
March 6, 2025
After an overnight flight to Heathrow, the London underground brought me to St. Pancras Station and a connection to the train to London Luton airport (1). The flight to Sphinx Airport in Egypt left on time at 2:10. Taking off into the westerly wind, we banked left over Luton Hoo Mansion (now a golf course hotel) (2).
There is a cadence to a flight, with a ding as the plane ascends through 10,000 feet at which point the flight attendants get up. No ding, and the plane seemed to stop its climb. Soon, the pilot announced we would be returning to Luton due to a mechanical problem. Because we had just set out for a 5 hour flight, we had to burn fuel to reduce weight. The landing gear soon came down (3) (4), causing quite a racket as we circled the Bedfordshire countryside for the next two hours (5). The flight attedant asked for an Arabic-speaking volunteer to explain over the PA what was happening.
In a window seat, I was glad of a good book, as the first 7 times seeing the same towns passing below was sufficient. The plane landed where it had begun at 4:20, escorted by the airport fire brigade along the taxiways (6). We stopped at the maintenance hanger, and were shuttled by bus back to the terminal (7).
A replacement plane and crew (Hungarian) (8) were roused, and after just enough time for fast food, we embarked for a departure four hours late (9). Being sunset during Ramadan, many of the passengers had been fasting; a passenger in the second row was sharing his dates for the Iftar. Of the 222 passengers on the original flight, we lost 18 (10). Expecting arrival in time for a late dinner, I got to the hotel at 3:00 a.m. instead.
(1) London has five airports. I only went to the wrong one once.
(2) A "pile" as such grand (but difficult to maintain) houses are called in the UK.
(3) Substantially increasing rhe aerodynamic drag, increasing fuel consumption and thereby decreasing the time spent circling.
(4) I never had thought about it before, but the exit sign lights are linked to the landing gear, and they lighted up also, accompanied by dings.
(5) A passenger asked the pilot as we disembarked why we did not fly two hours toward Sphinx (a) and land (say) somewhere in Italy. The pilot responded (reasonably) that the airline had a large presence at Luton, which therefore had mechanics, spare parts, etc. I suspect there is also a prudential rule to keep the aircraft within X miles (or minutes) of an airport in case of a detected mechanical fault (b).
(a) A new airport closer to the Pyramids at Giza that opened last year to relieve crowding at nearby Cairo airport.
(a) I remember a few years ago a tempest in a teapot about a similar flight circling the Pacific off LAX, with breathless reports on cable news showing live shots of the plane.
(6) Just in case, and it gave the fire brigade something to do.
(7) Seeing three buses, one dazed passenger asked if they were all going to the same place!
(8) The airline in based in Hungary. At airports where airlines have a large presence, a standby crew is usually available against the advent of such a contingency.
(9) One flight attendant came rushing up the stairs out of breath at our scheduled departure time.
(10) The woman diagonally behind me, who was quite stressed on the original flight, did not rejoin.
St Pancras Station
Back at the Luton, at the maintenance hanger
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