Nansam (south mountain) (1) (2) in Seoul rises about 800 feet above the town. The climb follows the old city, and hill defense, walls. Walking up in the 17°F weather, I was glad I did not venture further out of the city for a hike. Wooden origami cranes hung at the summit outside the tower, where I had some lunch and gazed through the haze at the city below.
Stopping at an overlook on the climb down, a man set next to me and began to talk in broken English. After covering American and Korean presidential politics (3), he went on to personal matters. One of 10 children, his mother died at age 44 as a result of a chemical abortion when she got pregnant again (4). He has one son, who does not plan to have children (5). After about 45 minutes, I excused myself and continued downward.
Planning to go to the Korean National Museum, my route was impeded by an American military base and the Korean Presidential residence. The Korean War Museum was readily accessible, so I stopped there instead. One exhibit showed a movie about the bitter of 1950-1951, complete with snow falling on the audience. While the Museum was informative, the gift shop sold no books (in any language) to provide more context.
Outside is a naval vessel, which sunk a North Korean ship in 2002. A reminder that, while an armistice was signed in 1953, the Korean War never officially ended.
The low sun in the western sky signaled time to hop the train to the airport (6) for an evening flight to Kaohsiung (7) in Southern Taiwan.
(1) I'm so used to rivers being the center of cities, it's hard to remember that, while south of the city center, south mountain is north of the river.
(2) Stopping for coffee before the climb, the barrista asked if I worked at the American Embassy. A number of people living in the building where the café is located do.
Near the summit, people have placed thousands of locks on the rail as momentos
(3) I think he was anti-Yoon, calling his wife a former "call girl."
(4) "Nothing else to do in a rural town."
he said.
(5) Korea has the lowest fertility rate in the developed world, well below replacement level.
(6) A screen on the train showed a short film about the sovereignty of Dokdo Rocks, which Korea controls, but Japan claims.
(7) I had never heard of the place either, but I found a cheap flight.
Calligraphy in rocks
Boardwalk built around tree
Wood origami cranes
Seoul through the haze
Restricted US military area in Namsam
Descending
Flowers in support of Yoon near the Presidential residence
At the Korean War Memorial
Not quite sure why this was displayed
Korean naval ensign
Outside American Diplomacy Center
Walking back to Central station
Picture of green back tit at Kaohsiung Airport subway station.
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