Saturday, October 12, 2024

Tren des Pins & Les Grès d'Annot

Le Tren des Pins (1) was opened in 1911; the meter-guage line follows the Vars river up from Nice through the hill towns of Provence to Saint-André-les-Alpes (2). A tour group was riding up the valley on the train and sat near me. Their guide Carmela explained that the name Nice is derived from Nike, the Greek god of victory.

While I had a ticket through to Saint André, I decided to get off a few stops early at Annot. The sun was burning off the morning fog, and multiple hikes were on offer at Annot. 

The station has a large sign promoting the trails available available at Les Grès (sandstone) d'Annot. After stopping for provisions in the town, the trail leads back towards the station and through a tunnel under the tracks. 

The climb follows a long series of switchbacks up the south side of the escarpment. Due to yesterday's rains, there were some slick and muddy spots. After a little more than 1/2 hour, the trail leads left at a finger post to the Jardin du Roi (King's Garden). The garden was a steep-sided canyon with walls towering high above, a rock perched at the top in one spot. Le Chambre du Roi (King's bedroom) followed shortly after, encountering some helmeted rock climbers. The narrow natural tunnel funneled the wind through here.

Walking further along the top of the bluff offered sweeping views to the valley below. A number of other rock climbers were here, ascending the cliff face over the trail. No, thanks!

Descending back to town, I was pleased not to slip. Les Meteores trail turns right off the main trail above and north of the railway tracks. The overgrown trail was hard to follow, and the reason became apparent after a while. The path was blocked by a gate before arriving at a lane leading to town. Doubling back, a trail soon led down to the station.

In search of the railway viaduct above the town, I encountered vivid tiles in stone niches depicting the signs of the cross on the way to a hillside chapel. The viaduct was inaccessible, so I headed back to town, and the 2:10 train back to Nice (3). Total distance about 5 miles with 1,275 feet of vertical rise.

The ballet Copellia was offered tonight at the Nice Opera House. Somewhat surprisingly, rhe back of the Opera House faces the sea. A stroll along the sea provided fine views of the setting quartet moon.

(1) "The train of the pine cones." Two stories exist about the origin of the line's name: 
-The train ran so slowly that passengers could alight to pick up pine cones.
-The crew would gather and burn pine cones as fuel for the steam engine when coal ran out.

(2) A tunnel collapse a few years ago closed the line further on the Dignes les Bains. Repair work is ongoing.

(3) Trains are infrequent, only running about every four hours.
Ready to leave Nice
Ride up the valley as the fog burns off
The Mairie (town hall) at Annot
Trail map posted in town
Local patois below standard French
Annot Station. Note the water tower for steam engines, which still run frequently in the summer
Slick rocks on ascent
Finger post
Chestnuts were falling; one of the spikey pods fell about a foot from my head.
Right turn ahead
Jardin du Roi
Unexpected graffito "Glory to Ukraine"
Chambre du Roi
Overhanging rocks
View south up the La Galange Valley
Along the trail past Le Chambre 
Views east down the Vars Valley
Descending
Holding the trail in place across a mudslide
Indistinct Meteores trail
Back to the station
Up from the village
Station of the cross en route to Chapelle Notre-Dame
Chapelle Notre-Dame
The railway viaduct at Annot
Back to town
Waiting for the train; the rain yesterday made the trail muddy 
View of Citadelle d'Entrevaux from the train
Grey water from storm runoff
Vars river gorge
Back at Nice
Dusk approaching, Plage de Nice
The Opera House
Final bows
First quarter moon setting on the Mediterranean







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