Tuesday, May 28, 2024

Sierra de Montserrate, Bogota

May 28, 2024

Rising abruptly from Colmbia's Capital city of Bogotá (elevation 8,700 feet) (1), La Sierra de Montserrate offered a chance for some higher altitude hiking (2). Approaching the path to the summit, a dreaded "Martes Cerrada" sign ended my hiking plans; the trail is closed for maintenance on Tuesdays (3).

The summit was opened today, and the funicular was operating. A modest hike up and down a few times at the summit tested my endurance at 10,500 feet, fortified by some coca tea to ward off altitude sickness (4). Bogotá lies below. The city rose on a flat-bottom bowl at about 8,600 feet, surrounded by Andean peaks exceeding 10,000 feet. 

Wandering past the church, I tried a perro caliente (hot dog), which the docile stray dog was glad to share with me. As a light rain approached, I headed back down to the city on the finicular.

The Emerald Museum had no signage. Located in the Avianca (5) Building, I asked where the museum was. The security guard gave me a pass based on my passport, and I was escorted to the 23th floor. The museum entrance was pitch black, so I tripped over the chairs at the entrance, to the delight of the tour group just ahead, which I joined. The modest museum display recreates a Columbian Emerald mine, where emeralds took longer to form due to the lower pressures. The tour was soon over, and we ended at the (pricey) Emerald jewelery store.

Across the street is the larger and more visible gold museum, advertising free admission for those 60 and over (6). The collection is impressive and the text provides good context of the historical and cultural context for the items presented. Afterwards, back to the airport for a night connection to Bolivia.

(1) In Bogotá for a 23 hour layover enroute to Bolivia.

(2) And to test my readiness for a hike at similar altitude planned for Bulgaria next month.

(3) Ignoring the signs is not advised due to crime in the capital. I was not the only one disappointed on this Tuesday; a group of young men in black cassocks (presumably novitiates studying for the priesthood) had planned to make a pilgrimage hike to the church at the summit. 

(4) At 10,000 feet, there is about 25% less oxygen than at sea level.

(5) Colmbia's national airline.

(6) Luckily, one of the few things I know how to say in Spanish is "Yo soy viejo" ("I am old").

The destination: Sierra de Montserrate
So helpful to translate the Spanish "funicular" to the English "funicular"
Views of Bogotá below
View east
View west to Nuestra Señora de Guadeloupe 
Inside the church
Jesus statue as homeless man
The last supper
The Black Madonna
Red floripontio
Ubiquitous Andean Sparrow
Display at the Emerald Museum
Clay mold for gold to create necklace
At the gold museum
On the streets of Bogotá





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