Friday, May 31, 2024

Cyclone at Hanga Roa

May 31, 2024

The aurport at Rapa Nui (1) is the most remote airport on the world (2) (3). Upon boarding at Santiago, a man greeted the crew with good morning in Russian (добре утра). He saw my sneakers and top and asked if I were going to run the island's marathon on Sunday. The flight was uneventful as the plane scooted around some storms en route. Disembarking, I was greeted with a flower lei by someone from the hotel, a short walk away.

Plan A involved a sunset paddle today, and a visit with the kayak guide to plan a paddle tomorrow. The weather did not cooperate; the sea was roiling with a passing storm, with winds gusting to 50 MPH, and thunder storms (4). Upon enquiring about tomorrow, the kayak guy told me he was repairing his seafront house, which had been damaged in the storm.The wind forecast called for sustained wind between 25 and 35 MPH all weekend; good time to explore the land.

Going to rent a bike, the sky opened up; locals were taking pictures of the torrent flowing down the streets; I  skipped the bike. Walking along the sea front of Hanga Roa, the island's only town, spume was spraying off the waves. Metal roofs were flapping in the wind, and dining canopies were shreaded.

This evening's entertainment was the Kari-Kari ballet cultural, featuring live music and Rapanui dancing in traditional dress. Wind and heavy rain pounding on the metal roof added to the atmosphere (5).

(1) Known in English as Easter Island (Isla de la Pasqua in Spanish) because Dutch Admiral Jacob Roggeveen stumbled upon the Island on Easter Day in 1722.

(2) At 2,336 miles from the airport at Santiago, Chile (a). Chilean aviation regulations do not permit planes to be more than halfway to the island if another plane with the island as the destination (or alternative destination) has not already landed, just in case. At this time of year, there is only one daily flight. In the Austral summer, the (up to) three daily flights need to be spaced out to comply.

(a) The nearest inhabited land (no airport) is Pitcairn Island, 1,135 miles away. Most of Pitcairn's 67 inhabitants descend from Fletcher Christain, mutineer on the Bounty (i).

(i) After the mutiny, The Bounty's Captain Bligh, with 18 loyal crew members, navigated over 4,000 miles across the Pacific to the Dutch East Indies (known as Indonesia today) in an 23 foot open boat. They had a compass, but no nautical charts on their 47 day journey. 

(3) The US's NASA space agency funded a runway lengthening as an emergency landing spot for the space shuttle.

(4) I would call it a gale; they referred to the storm as a cyclone. In the southern hemisphere, storms rotate clockwise, so the storm winds were from the southwest.

(5) Thankfully, the rain stopped before the end of the show. My hotel was about a mile outside of town and it would have been a long walk in the rain.

Iorana (welcome) to Rapa Nui
Map of island at Hotel. 
The island outline looks much like Martha's Vineyard, tilted about 30° counter-clockwise, although Rapa Nui is smaller than the Vineyard.
Roadside flowers, Hanga Roa
Moai at seaside
No sunset paddle today 
The Kari-Kari dance troupe






Thursday, May 30, 2024

Cerro Santa Lucia, Santiago, Chile

May 30, 2024

A midday flight (1) (2) passed over the expansive salt flats of Bolivia heading SSW toward Chile. The snow-capped Andes were on the left on the descent to Santiago.

The Cerro Santa Lucia (St. Lucy Hill) is the historic center of the Santiago. A lovely urban park here offers views over the city. The park reminded me of NYC's Central Park and Montréal's Mount Royal Park, both designed by Frederick Law Olmstead (3) in the late 1800s. While not an Olmstead park, Santa Lucia was designed contemporaneously (1872).

I climbed up and down the modest hill (about 200 feet above the city) a couple of times. The sunset was at 5:45 on this late Austral autumn day. The fading light cast intersting shadows on the high Andes to the east as night settled in.

(1) On the ride to the airport in Santa Cruz, I figured out the traffic rules I had been observing in the city:
● At the many uncontrolled intersections: the more aggressive driver has the right of way.
● At smaller intersections with traffic lights: stop on red, then look and go.
● At bigger intersections, obey the traffic lights (except late at night when follow the rule above).
Entering a rotary: completely ignore red lights; don't even slow down.
● When already in a rotary, stop and wait on red regardless of other traffic or time of day.
In contrast, the roads in Chile felt more like Europe.

(2) The pilot made announcements in Spanish and English (as expected) and then, unexpectedly, in French.

(3) Creator of landscape architecture, designed to provide a natural sense of outdoors for city dwellers.

Bolivian salt flats visible from the plane
At Santa Lucia park
Darwin did spend time in Chile during the voyage of the Beagle en route to the Galapagos
The torre mirador
Burial place of Benjamin Vicuña MacKenna, first mayor of Santiago and the park's founder
Poking about waiting for sunset 
A hummingbird enjoyed the nectar of this candelabra aloe at the summit
Sunset over the city
The high Andes at dusk through the haze
Twilight
Back at street level