Wednesday, January 18, 2023

Kayaking Ko Kudu

January 18, 2023

Off to a small beach in the northeast of Ko Yao Noi, driven by Run's uncle. Paddling north along the east side of the island, we passed some white sandy beaches and a fancy hotel, accessible only by sea or by rough trail through the forest. A boat brings guests to the resort from Phuket, who are then ferried to shore in a long-tail boat.

The first stop was at a beach in a small cove where fishermen sometimes spend the night. They retreat to the cover of the caves during the monsoon rains. The water today was much clearer than yestetday (1), and was the perfect temperature for a nice swim, although Run said it was too cold.

Across the channel to Ko Kudu Yai, where there is a lagoon (known locally as a "hong") enclosed by towering limestone rocks. The cliffs on the main island, plus the enclosing rocks, created an echo chamber in the lagoon. A couple had come out on a long-tail boat and were enjoying the seclusion. A curcumnavigation of the island brought us to a nice lunch spot on the southwest of the island. Run said he enjoyed the quiet today without the usual accompanying long-tail boat puttering nearby.

The final stop of the day was on Ko Kudu Lek, a smaller island to the west. An opening on the rocks here affords access to a lagoon at high tide. I went ashore alone and wandered to the mangroves inside the lagoon, which was dry with the low tide. Run remained on his boat and hid in a cave east of the lagoon. "How did you find me?" he asked mischeviously. After two days paddling with him, I knew he never passed a cave without poking in (2).

He directed me to a low narrow cave just east. About fifteen yards in, the low cave widens to permit turning around, using a technique similar to a 3-pount turn in a car. 

The last speed boat back to the mainland today was at 4:00, so we paddled directly across to An Pao and disembarked at the floating dock to where a friend of Run's had driven his truck. About 8 miles on the water today.

Back on mainland, I headed to the airport for a late flight to Bangkok. Overnight in Bangkok, twelve+ hour flight to Frankfurt, then home with an overnight in Frankfurt.

(1) The kayak guide said that the water was clearer diring the neap tides than during the spring tides, when the larger volume and speed of the currents stirs up the bottom more.

(2) He was also seeking shade because he had forgotten his hat today.
At the launch
At the first stop
Entering the lagoon/hong on Ko Kudu Yai 
Inside the lagoon, Ko Kudu Yai 
Lagoon entrance paddleable at high tide, Ko Kudu Yek 
At Ko Kudu Yek
Off the water



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