The hotel arranged a water taxi this morning from the cove below the hotel to Positano (1). A short walk brought us to Fornillo (2) Beach, where we met our kayak guide, Mariella. We chatted while getting the boats sorted and signing a waiver. The guide said my wife looked Italian. "Her family is from Napoli" I said "but I'm irish." Without missing a beat she replied "That's not you fault, it was your parents."
We paddled east, carefully crossing the busy channel crammed with water taxis, ferries, and land lubbers who had rented boats (3). We hugged the shore, slaloming around rocks and even going through a tunnel the waves had carved into the cliff face.
Mariella explained that the frequent watch towers on the shore were built about 1,000 years ago by the King of Naples to warn against attacks by Arab Pirates, known as Saracens (4). Much later, the writer John Steinbeck spent time in Positano, popularizing the place, especially among American tourists.
We stopped for a swim at a secluded beach in Praiano. On the way back, we paddled (one at a time) into a small sea cave. The cave is called cadaver cave because the spring-fed water there would make you cold as a cadaver if you went for a swim. The sun shining through the water near the cave entrance casts an enchanting blue hue.
Naples was our final stop for the day; boats go directly there or via the Ile of Capri. We opted for the long way, but found Capri mobbed with people. We watched the long lines at the quay-side taxi stand, as the open top cars drove away with huge suitcases sticking out of their trunks. The funicular ride from the port to the main town offered nice views of the port, but the long line at the top station encouraged us to walk back down.
The ferry to Naples was leaving from dock 4, no dock 2 or 7, no dock 6. After a pushing and shoving match (5) we left late from dock 5.
(1) A little pricey, but anything to avoid the local buses.
(2) Fornillo means "little oven," after an ancient oven found there.
(3) Later near a beach landing, I was shouted at by the driver of one of these boats. "Coming in hot" he said, clearly unable to manouver the boat and with no knowledge of the rules of the sea, which gives priority to paddle craft over power vessels.
(4) The first war fought by the new United States was against these same Barabry Pirates (as they were known in 1803). The British Navy no longer protected American shipping after independence (a).
(a) There is a line in the Marine Corp anthem: "to the shores of Tripoli" which refers to an engagement during this war.
(5) "Scrum" is too dignified a word to describe the pandemonium on the narrow jetty. Luckily, I have sharp elbows.
Positano
Old watchtower. Now an expensive rental villa
Leaving Positano by ferry
Small acapeligo off Positano
An old watchtower on the largest island (Gallo Lungo) also serves as a lighthouse (Flashing pattern: One white flash every 4 seconds)
Eastern end of Capri
Views from the funicular, Capri
View of the funicular, Capri
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