Hiking and Kayaking Cinque Terre

July 16, 2022

Manarola is the next of the 5 towns north of Riomaggiore and a hiking trail connects them. Given the time and day and angle of the morning sun, I figured there would be more shade on the Manarola side, so we hopped on the train for one stop north. 

The towns are separated by a 700 foot-high ridge. The climb up was quite steep and uneven, with occasional rock scrambling (1). There is a nice camaraderie on the trail. During one of our many pauses on the way up, a group stopped and asked if we had enough water. At the summit, I joked to my wife "We made it all the way up without stopping." An Italian man sitting nearby turned to me with a mock wagging finger and said "I don't believe that!" He was visiting from Apulia (the heel in the Italian boot). A steep descent in the sun brought us back to Riomaggiore.

We had now been to 4 of the 5 towns in Cinque Terre. The remaining town, Corniglia, was only about 2 miles away by sea. We rented two kayaks (2), and paddled north. Adolescents (mainly boys) were jumping into the sea from various cliffs along the way. We poked into Corniglia's tiny harbor, then found a secluded beach on the south side of the cliffs to pull out and enjoy the sea. The cliff face had very distinct striations, which had been curved in a parabolic fashion in what I assume was some geological upheaval (3).

There was not a hotel room to be had anywhere on the coast tonight, so we took local trains up to Milan (4).

(1) Depending on which sign you read, the trail is either a kilometre (sign in Manarola), or less than half a kilometre (sign at the summit). Either way, a steep climb. 

(2) Well, not exactly, there were "sit-on-tops." Sit-on-tops are to real sea kayaks as a golf cart is to a Masserati: they will both get you there eventually, but one will do so with much greater speed, comfort and style.

(3) An explanation of the geology (that I can't make heads or tails out of) is available here: https://geologyistheway.com/blog/2021/02/20/wild-geology-around-manarola-cinque-terre-italy-huge-folds-and-faults-with-seaside-overviews/ 

(4) The hotel we had stayed at last night has a shower room off the lobby where departing guests can freshen up later in the day even after checking out. Very civilized.

Climbing up from Monarola

Views from the trail summit

Attenzione alla testa (watch your head) 

Monorail track crossing trail above Riomaggiore

Climbing down to Riomaggiore

Back at Riomaggiore

Inverted and curved striations at Corniglia (View from trail earlier in the day)

Rome and Riomaggiore

July 14 to 15, 2022

Up early for our flight to Sofia, Bulgaria. We had planned to spend the night in a mountain hut high in the Rila Mountains of Bulgaria, summit Mt. Musala tomorrow, then go to a music festival in Central Bulgaria on Saturday. 

We had arranged with the hotel front desk for a taxi at 4:00 a.m. for our 6:20 flight. Down to the front desk at 3:50; the clerk calls for a taxi (which he was supposed to do last night), "no taxis, on strike today." The strike was announced in advance and started yesterday, but the clerk did not bother to tell us last night. No Uber or other ride apps in Napoli (the strike was to protest a bill that would allow such apps). The first bus to the airport leaves at 5:40 (1). No other flight options to Sofia today (2).

So, with a few choice words, we went back to bed, and caught the local train to Rome later in the morning (3). While we love Rome, the city is much less fun when you had planned to be someplace else. The scooters running red lights and going full tilt down pedestrian-only roads seem less charming and just rude as you jump out of the way.

We had enjoyed our visit earlier this week to Cinque Terre. Being the height of the travel season, rooms were hard to find, but one room was available in Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the 5 towns, which I quickly booked. We took the local trains north, with a stop in Pisa long enough to see the tower. 

We walked up to the hotel: "Sorry, there was a mistake in the booking system, we do not have a room." Uh oh. "But, to honor your reservation, we found a three bedroom apartment in town which we can give you at the room price." "Grazie mille, signorina" I replied. She eyed me skeptically, and replied in perfect English: "It's been a long time since I've been a 'signorina.'" 

We wandered down to the seaside rocks where people were sunbathing and jumping into the sea. We joined them; I only scraped two places on my legs on the barnacle encrusted rocks (4).

(1) Apparently the Neopolitan authorities cannot read a flight schedule, as the first bus arrives too late to catch any of the first 19 flights of the day.

(2) We had planned to fly back to Italy on Sunday. As it turned out, we would have been stranded in Bulgaria due to an Italian air traffic control strike that day anyway (a). An accurate tourism slogan for Italy would be: "Welcome to Italy, we don't give a damn about you."

(a) At least we missed the northern Italy rail strike by one day. 

(3) Without advance planning, local train are often the only option in Italy. The various strikes we encountered inhibited any advance planning. 

(4) When our kids were young and they would go to the pediatrician with scrapes, bumps, and bruises, he would say something like: "Good, you're getting outdoors and having fun."

At Pisa

Colorful tree in Riomaggiore

Sea kayaking in Positano

July 13, 2022

The hotel arranged a water taxi this morning from the cove below the hotel to Positano (1). A short walk brought us to Fornillo (2) Beach, where we met our kayak guide, Mariella. We chatted while getting the boats sorted and signing a waiver. The guide said my wife looked Italian. "Her family is from Napoli" I said "but I'm irish." Without missing a beat she replied "That's not you fault, it was your parents."

We paddled east, carefully crossing the busy channel crammed with water taxis, ferries, and land lubbers who had rented boats (3). We hugged the shore, slaloming around rocks and even going through a tunnel the waves had carved into the cliff face.

Mariella explained that the frequent watch towers on the shore were built about 1,000 years ago by the King of Naples to warn against attacks by Arab Pirates, known as Saracens (4). Much later, the writer John Steinbeck spent time in Positano, popularizing the place, especially among American tourists. 

We stopped for a swim at a secluded beach in Praiano. On the way back, we paddled (one at a time) into a small sea cave. The cave is called cadaver cave because the spring-fed  water there would make you cold as a cadaver if you went for a swim. The sun shining through the water near the cave entrance casts an enchanting blue hue. 

Naples was our final stop for the day; boats go directly there or via the Ile of Capri. We opted for the long way, but found Capri mobbed with people. We watched the long lines at the quay-side taxi stand, as the open top cars drove away with huge suitcases sticking out of their trunks. The funicular ride from the port to the main town offered nice views of the port, but the long line at the top station encouraged us to walk back down. 

The ferry to Naples was leaving from dock 4, no dock 2 or 7, no dock 6. After a pushing and shoving match (5) we left late from dock 5. 

(1) A little pricey, but anything to avoid the local buses. 

(2) Fornillo means "little oven," after an ancient oven found there.

(3) Later near a beach landing, I was shouted at by the driver of one of these boats. "Coming in hot" he said, clearly unable to manouver the boat and with no knowledge of the rules of the sea, which gives priority to paddle craft over power vessels.

(4) The first war fought by the new United States was against these same Barabry Pirates (as they were known in 1803). The British Navy no longer protected American shipping after independence (a).

(a) There is a line in the Marine Corp anthem: "to the shores of Tripoli" which refers to an engagement during this war.

(5)  "Scrum" is too dignified a word to describe the pandemonium on the narrow jetty. Luckily, I have sharp elbows.

The only way to travel in Amalfi: by water

Positano

Through the tunnel

On the beach in Praiano

In the cave

Old watchtower.  Now an expensive rental villa

Leaving Positano by ferry

Small acapeligo off Positano

An old watchtower on the largest island (Gallo Lungo) also serves as a lighthouse (Flashing pattern: One white flash every 4 seconds) 

Eastern end of Capri

Views from the funicular, Capri

View of the funicular, Capri

Sentiero degli Del, Amalfi Coast

July 12, 2022

The towns on the Amalfi coast were historically connected to the rest of Italy by sea and by donkey trail up and over the mountains. One of these donkey paths (1) is now a hiking trail known as Sentiero degli Dei (The Trail of the Gods). Our original plan had been to hike up from Praiano, then gradually descend west to Positano and take the bus back to Praiano. Our experience with the local bus yesterday encouraged an alternative no-bus plan: ascend from Praiano via the more western path up from town, then take the more easterly trail back down to Praiano.

The ascent from Praiano to the Monastery of Saint Domenic (at about 1,000 feet) is well marked and consists mainly of rough stone stairs. Hiking in the shadow of the mountains during the morning provided some welcome shade. At the monastery's church, we bought some votive candles, but saw no matches or other flames. A brother (2) appeared with a lighter and asked whether we wanted the candles by St. Domenic or by the Madonna; we chose the Madonna. He lit the candle and went to pray.

While enjoying the views and some cold water at the Monastery, we fell into conversation with a young English couple. They had travelled round-trip from Praiano to Pompei via bus and train yesterday: "Look at my red face" the guy said, "this is from waiting for the bus an hour and a half yesterday. The first bus was full, then the second bus never came." Despite the couple's youth, the Monastery was as far up the mountainside as they were going. 

We continued on the trail above the monastery. While still easy to follow, the trail was rougher, with some modest rock scrambling required. The people we encountered were mainly from the UK and quite friendly. Near the junction of the trail from Praiano with the Sentiero degli Dei, there is a small guest house selling lemon ice; just the thing after climbing 1,600 feet. 

After a lunch of bread and grapes at a picnic table near grazing goats, we reached a water spigot at 1,850 above sea level near the Colle la Serra. The other trail to Praiano starts here and we descended back to the town. A small cogged rail was beside the trail most of the way, used to bring down the grapes and olives at harvest time.

A small, deep cove lies below the hotel down a long flight of steps. Walking here ensured we did at least 1,850 vertical feet today, and offered a refreshing dip in the sea, with a ladder to assist in getting back out. 

Back at the hotel, we saw the English couple from the Monastery (he with the red face), who recommended the hotel's Limoncello Spritz to us and another young couple hanging out by the pool. The cocktail is made with lemons growing in the hotel's garden; very tasty, but potent (3).

(1) Judging by the scat on the trail, occasional braying, and a laded animal we encountered, donkeys are still used in the hills.

(2) It may have been a monk. I'm not sure how to tell the difference.

(3) And/or perhaps bread and grapes were not enough for lunch.

Climbing up to the Monastery

Elaborate manger scene at the Monastery

Monk (brother?) lighting the candle

Asking his permission to take his picture, he replied modestly: "Me?"

View west from the Monastery

Above the monastery

Trail junction

Where they serve the lemon ice

Goats near Colle la Serra

The spigot at 1,850 feet

View to the west end of Amalfi coast

Tent site near Colle la Serra

Trailside Donkey

Descending to Praiano

The monorail used at harvest time

Nearing the town

The small cove in Praiano

Sunset view from Hotel