Last day in São Miguel

February 18, 2020

Some glimpses of sun were in the offing our last day on São Miguel, so we drove back up to Vista do Rei for a view of the lakes in the sun. I enjoyed the birds hopping about before heading to the airport for the flight home.

Azorean Finch at Vista do Rei

Brief glimpses of sun

São Miguel eastern lakes

February 17, 2020

If you have ever seen a picture of the Azores, it was probably taken from Boca do Inferno, overlooking the volcanic lakes on the west side of São Miguel. 

On the way up, we stopped at a pineapple plantation. My wife asked someone she thought was an employee about the growing process. It was not an employee, but a tour guide waiting for her busload of tourists. She was more than happy to show us around and give her spiel. Pineapples are grown in greenhouses in the Azores, including a process called smoking that encourages more rapid growth. The practice started when an emoyee accidentally left a cigar behind. 

Driving up to the lakes, we saw a trail head, so we stopped and went for a hike. We first arrived at the Empadadas Lakes, two mountain tarns. Our climb resumed until we reached Pico do Paul in a moderate rain. We were below the cloud cover, and the view was fine.

As in the east of the island, there are a number of road-side vistas overlooking Os Lagos Verde y Azul (the green and blue lakes), including the Vista do Rei. We enjoyed the view and the colorful Azorean finches flitting about. 

At a viewpoint closer to the lakes, we saw the distinctive yellow/orange color of kayaks in Sete Cidades, the town by the lakes. Upon enquiring at the boat livery, we were disappointed to discover they had a tour bus coming, so no boats were available. We did pick up some post cards. Unfortunately, they had no stamps at the post office.

The Boca do Inferno viewpoint requires a relatively flat hike through the woods. The views were definitely worth the effort and the other people there (mainly from Germany) were a convivial group. 

We drove down down and then back up the other side of the volcanic crater to the east coast town of Mosteiros, where an angry sea was rolling in from the northwest. We enjoyed the sunset view (and a local liqueur from a café truck) at a cliff-side overlook.

At the pineapple plantation

View to Capelas

Trail to the Empadadas Lakes

The Empadadas Lakes

The trail to Pico do Paul

View from Pico do Paul

Old aqueduct

View of Lagoa Verde (foreground) and Lagoa Azul from Vista do Rei

Azorean finch

At lower vista

Nearing Boca do Inferno

Views from Boca do Inferno

View of Boca do Inferno

Rocks off Mosteiros

View to Mosteiros

Drafting on the cliffs

Last light

Nordeste

February 16, 2020

There were breaks in the clouds as we drive north from Ponta Delgada, then along the northern coastal road. There was rain and low cloud cover for most of the drive. We had a nice cafe com leite at a cafe overlooking the 7 arches bridge in the small town of Nordeste in the northeast (naturally) corner of the Island. 

A sign pointed toward the Farol (lighthouse) Arnel down a steep road; we opted to walk. There were tiny houses, which seemed to be a mixture of fishing shacks and seasonal cottages. Below the lighthouse was a tall waterfall and a small fishing port. 

Further south, the Miradouru (lookout point) Ponta do Sossego consisted of immaculately-maintained gardens with manicured lawns, tidy paths and colorful flowers. There was a poem inscribed on a tile mosaic written by a poet who was born in Fall River, Mass. (1) (2). The gardens are home to a number of healthy, well-fed cats.

Getting to another lookout involved driving up a rutted, wet and slippery dirt road. While there were no gardens at the Miradouro do Pôr-do-Sol, the views were grand, and the sun was peeking through the clouds. 

The final stop today was at Furnas, which was easily discernable due to the steam (and sulphurous smell) from the volcanic vents. West of town are large pools fed with 100° (F) iron-laden water (3). It took a while to get across town; there were many visitors today due to a Camelia festival. We had a good soak in the thermal pool while it rained and the daylight waned. Eventually, a guy with a flashlight came and told us it was time to go (4).

At dinner back in Ponta Delgada (spicy chicken piri-piri), we asked our waiter about his excellent English. "My dad is from Fall River" he replied.

(1) There is also a monument in Fall River presenting his poems on tile. 

(2) There is a large population of people with Azorean ancestry in Southeastern Massachusetts, which explains the daily flights from Boston.

(3) We brought old bathing suits due to the iron.

(4) Arriving at 5:30, with the pools closing at 6:00, we decidedly go in anyways; the man at the ticket booth said we could stay late. The pools remain open late for guests at the adjacent hotel, who walk to the pools wearing grey bathrobes. Our pile of clothes gave us away as day visitors.

Nordeste

Brook outlet below Nordeste

The walk down to the lighthouse

The Arnel Lighthouse

Below the lighthouse

The walk back up

View of the lighthouse later through the mist

At the Ponta do Sossego Viewpoint and Garden

There were even views at the viewpoint

At the next road side vista

Views from Miradouro do Pôr-do-Sol

View of Povoação

Thermal pool, Furnas