The Serdi tribe established Serdika around hot springs B.C.E. The city became important during the time of Emperor Constantine (circa 300 C.E.). Constantine had himself crowned in the city and is reputed to have wanted to move the Roman Capital here: "Serdika is my Rome." The senate refused, and the capital moved to Byzantium (soon thereafter to be known as Constantinople and today known as Istanbul).
The city became known as Sofia because of the prominent Church named Hagia Sofia built here during the Roman era (1). The architecture today is a mix of Ottoman era, Bulgarian Revival (mid 1800s to early 20th century), and Communist Grandiosity in the city center. While excavating for the Metro, many remnants from the Roman era were unearthed, including a section of the Via Militaris.
Saturday morning, we took tram line 5 to the end of the line just west of Mount Vitosha, looming above the city at 2,200 meters. We followed the Panaoramic drive (2) along the front of the mountain to the Boyana Church, which dates from 1259. The restored frescoes offer vivid scenes from the Life of Jesus and of Saint Nicholas.
Returning to the city via a different tram, we wandered to the National Archaeological Museum, where we were fascinated by the decorated pottery dating from more than 6,000 years ago. A stop at the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral was accompanied by a choir singing from the loft in what appeared to be evening prayer.
(1) Not to be confused with the much larger Hagia Sofia in Istanbul.
(2) The panoramic view of the city is only visible in glimpses from the street; the best views presumably are enjoyed from the houses lining the north side of the street.
Ivan Vazov National Theatre, Bulgarian Revival Period
Trail Sign on Vitosha Mountain
On the walk to Boyana Church. The transliteration is "Panoramen"
Ancient Serdika
Via Militaris
Head of Zeus
Decorated pottery from 4,000 B.C.E.
Decapitated Statue outside Museum
Changing of the guard at Presidential Palace, opposite the Archaeological Museum
Inside Banya Mosque
Last night in Bulgaria
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