Serdika

August 24, 2019

The Serdi tribe established Serdika around hot springs B.C.E. The city became important during the time of Emperor Constantine (circa 300 C.E.). Constantine had himself crowned in the city and is reputed to have wanted to move the Roman Capital here: "Serdika is my Rome." The senate refused, and the capital moved to Byzantium (soon thereafter to be known as Constantinople and today known as Istanbul).

The city became known as Sofia because of the prominent Church named Hagia Sofia built here during the Roman era (1). The architecture today is a mix of Ottoman era, Bulgarian Revival (mid 1800s to early 20th century), and Communist Grandiosity in the city center. While excavating for the Metro, many remnants from the Roman era were unearthed, including a section of the Via Militaris.

Saturday morning, we took tram line 5 to the end of the line just west of Mount Vitosha, looming above the city at 2,200 meters. We followed the Panaoramic drive (2) along the front of the mountain to the Boyana Church, which dates from 1259. The restored frescoes offer vivid scenes from the Life of Jesus and of Saint Nicholas.

Returning to the city via a different tram, we wandered to the National Archaeological Museum, where we were fascinated by the decorated pottery dating from more than 6,000 years ago. A stop at the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral was accompanied by a choir singing from the loft in what appeared to be evening prayer.

(1) Not to be confused with the much larger Hagia Sofia in Istanbul.

(2) The panoramic view of the city is only visible in glimpses from the street; the best views presumably are enjoyed from the houses lining the north side of the street.

Ivan Vazov National Theatre, Bulgarian Revival Period

Trail Sign on Vitosha Mountain

On the walk to Boyana Church. The transliteration is "Panoramen"

Ancient Serdika

Via Militaris

Head of Zeus

Decorated pottery from 4,000 B.C.E.

Decapitated Statue outside Museum

Changing of the guard at Presidential Palace, opposite the Archaeological Museum

Inside Banya Mosque

Last night in Bulgaria

Rila 7 Lakes

August 23, 2019

No Roman sites today as we headed to the Rila Mountains south of Sofia to do some hiking. A chair lift took us from 1,500 meters up to about 2,100 meters. It was interesting to watch the tall trees decrease in number as we ascended, then the trees shortened and disappeared at the top of the chair lift. 

The hike begins with a steep ascent to the top of a wide ridge where the first of the 7 glacial lakes (Lower Lake) is visible. Further moderate hiking brings Fish Lake, Trefoil Lake, and Twin Lake into view. We had some lunch beside Kidney Lake and savored the deep green-blue water on this beautiful sunny day. A steep ascent to Heart Lake was followed by another to Teardrop Lake and then to the highest point on our hike at Lakes Peak (about 2500 meters). From here, all 7 lakes are visible. Some circles were visible on the ground below; the paneurhythmn dances are performed here in mid August each year:  https://youtu.be/0sKqUG9Yw5w 

We noted some horses on the ridge out for summer pasture. Some bells soon directed our attention to a flock of sheep traversing a very narrow rocky ridge to the south; they seemed more sure-footed than I. The sheep were silhouetted against the deep blue sky. 

The descent was challenging back to Kidney Lake; the ascending and descending trails are the same here and the path is rather eroded. Our guide (1) pointed out a whirl of dust from the parh. The dust and dirt have caused problems in the lakes as the formerly rocky bottoms begin to accumulate dirt and therefore to sprout grasses from the bottom. 

The up and down paths diverged at Kidney Lake, with the down path passing by the lakes we had seen on the ascent from the ridge above. Total distance was about 5.5 miles.

(1) A guide is useful to have in unfamiliar mountains in a country where you don't speak the language.

Lower Lake from ridge on ascent

Kidney Lake

Heart Lake

Teardrop Lake, View from Lake Peak

Circles from dancing

Twin Lake

On the descent

The trail at Fish Lake

Trail signs

High peaks of the Rhodope in the distance

Philipopolis

August 22, 2019

A short train ride to Plovdiv this afternoon. The town was named Philipopolis (1) by Philip of Macedon (father of Alexander the Great), then called Trimontaine (Three Hills) by the Romans.

We walked to the old town and peeked at a rehearsal for the opera Orpheus, which is to be performed at the ancient Roman Amphitheatre in two days. A forum with seats for 25,000 spectators is in the city center, mostly buried under the principal shopping street. The north end is accessible and we popped down the stairs for a look at dusk. At sunset, the call to prayer sounded from the adjacent mosque.

(1) There is still a small train station north off town called Filipovo.

Ottoman Fort atop hill in Old Town

Ottoman era houses were taxed based in first floor footprint, so second story often extended out

The Roman amphitheater. People on stage are rehearsing for the Opera Orpheus and Erudice

The church where the Bulgarian Language was used for a service in 1859 (The official Church was Greek)

Roman Forum

This cat was not impressed to be at the old forum

Sunset from Old Town

Dioclacianopolis

August 21 to 22, 2019

Heading to the central Bulgarian city of Hisar involved four different trains. While there were prehistoric settlements and a small Thracian town here, the city reached its zenith during the reign of the Roman Emperor Dioclatian around 300 C.E., hence the city's Roman-era name of Dioclatianopolis. The Romans were a bit obsessed with water and the natural hot springs caused them to construct a walled city here. The defensive walls surrounding the town are remarkably intact.

The next morning, while taking pictures by the West Gate, a local runner stopped to point out to us the drainage holes in the walls. These drainage holes help to explain why the walls are still intact; water would not accumulate inside and damage the walls with the changing temperatures. The runner enthused about how the Roman established western civilization, then disparaged the Turks (1) for not appreciating this and taking bricks and stones from the walls to build mosques in the town. 

A visit to the local archeological museum helped to provide context and a rough timeline of the town.

(1) Disparaging the 500 year period of Ottoman rule (the Turkish yoke) is very common in Bulgaria.

West Gate

East Wall

South Wall

South Gate, still the main entrance to the City

The walls at night

Hisarya Mosque & St. Pantelaimon Chirch

Sheet heading out for pasture

Detail of drainage holes

Dioclatian, after whom the city is named

Spout for water entering pools

Ancient Roman Thermae Pool

Mosaic in Roman Tomb

St Pantelaimon

Double north walls