January 13, 2019
The morning bus to Tiberias hit heavy rain about halfway there, and the rain continued through the descent to Tiberias on the Sea of Galilee (1). It was a real gully washer, with muddy water flowing down the streets.
I had planned to rent a bike and ride up to Capernaum, but the locals advised against this due to the rain, which had washed mud and rocks into the road and which could happen again this afternoon. I therefore hopped on the local bus heading north and got off at the road leading to the Monastery of the Beattitudes, located where they believe Jesus gave the Sermon on the Mount.
Upon arrival at Monastery gate (a 1.3 km walk down a side road), I discovered they did not open until 2:00. As it was about 12:50, I puzzled over the hedges spelling out "Pax et Bonumi" (2) for a few minutes. When the gate opened, I proceeded to the modern church for a look. I'm sure the view from here across the Sea of Galilee would have been nice absent the low cloud cover.
I knew there was path from the monastery down to Tabgha at the Sea and enquired of the Italian Sister at the Church where the path was. She told me it was through the first gate, but it was too dangerous due to the rain. She mimed walking with her two fingers, made a swish sound and showed her fingers falling. "Take the road" she said (3). I took a look at the path; it was behind a locked gate and the sister had the key. I took the road. Walking down the winding, narrow-shouldered main road, an Israeli Police car stopped and enquired if anything were wrong: "No, just walking." "OK, be careful" they replied" (4).
Tagbha is the site of Jesus feeding of 5,000 of his followers with two fish and a bit of bread and the Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and the Fishes commemorates the event. The Church was built on the remains of a 5th century church that was destroyed in 614 C.E. The location was lost until an archeological expedition in 1932 discovered a few remnants of the church and the (relatively intact) floor mosaics. The current church structure was built in 1984, using the same floor plan as the original church. The 1,600 year old mosaics have been well restored and are quite striking.
A short walk from there brought me to the seaside Church of the Primacy of St. Peter. The site is believed to be where Jesus made his last post-resurrection appearance and entrusted the care of the Church to Peter (6). The Church, built in 1933, is a simple stone structure inside and out and its stained glass has no iconography, is simple inside (7). There is a rock protruding into the Church at the altar where Jesus made his last appearance on earth.
I walked up to the junction with the main road and took the next southbound bus. Soaking in the hamam at the hotel refreshed me as the day ended. While the hamam is indoors, I got out after a very bright flash and loud burst of thunder signalled an intensification of the rain storm.
(1) The Sea of Galilee (a) is 685 feet below sea level (b). I had never been below sea level before (c).
(a) More properly a lake, as it has an outlet (the Jordan River) and is known locally as Kinnerett Lake.
(b) The lake is in the Jordan Rift Valley and ultimately flows into the Dead Sea (i).
(i) A real sea, as it has no outlet. The Dead Sea is so salty because all the salt leached from the land of the valley accumulates in the sea.
(c) Except when scuba diving.
(2) I knew pax (peace) right away, but it took a few minutes for me to figure out bonumi: "good will." I still had an hour to wait and I had no book!
(3) The path was probably a mile down a steep hill. The road route required backtracking to the main road, walking down some switchbacks on the main road, then taking a left. Total distance of about 4.5 km.
(4) I pondered as I walked who would win a debate between the Italian Sister and the Israeli Police as to the safest route: the path or the road (d).
(d) I think it would be the Italian Sister because she had the key to the gate giving access to the path (ii).
(ii) Although walking on the side of a busy, winding road filled with Israeli drivers is not for the feint of heart either.
(5) Most of the mosaics depict birds from the Galilee area.
(6) Roman Catholic popes consider themselves to be the successors to St. Peter.
(7) Many of the Churches in Jerusalem are quite the opposite: heavily frescoed, mosaiced, etc., betraying their Byzantine origins and Eastern Orthodox roots. All the Churches in the region of Galilee north of Tiberias appear to be relatively modern Roman Catholic churches. I'm not sure why I have not seen any Orthodox religious buildings in the area.
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