Thursday, February 20, 2025

Notre Dame renaissée

February 17, 2025

In 2019, the roof and much of the interior of Notre Dame Cathedral were engulfed in flames. While repairing the roof, the opportunity was taken to refresh the interior and exterior of the building, which reopened in December. The refurbished building is magnificent, although much more crowded than before (visitors are making up for lost time). We lingered in the pews to soak it all in.

After coffee, we strolled down the Seine on the north bank, passing the Louvre, and enjoying the Tuileries Gardens. Back at the hotel, my sister and friend headed in, while my wife and I walked on to the Pantheon. While still open for the day, we just missed the last entrance time.

The next morning, after I escorted my wife and friend to Gare de l'este for a train to Luxembourg, my sister and I headed home.
Notre Dame refreshed after the fire
Last supper bas relief 
Post-ressurection scene to right of altar: Doubting Thomas touching Jesus' wounds
The Main Altar
Sign at Charles de Gaulle Airport
The Seine at Ile St. Louis
Jeanne d'Arc (Joan of Arc) statue
Place de la Concorde, where the revolutionaries committed regicide and guillotined Marie Antoinette in 1793. The obelisk is plunder from Egypt.
Le Jardin des Tuileries
Cain after killing Abel
The Pantheon at late day. The Sorbonnes L'Ecole de Droit (Law School) is to the left. Sydney Carton, a Character in Dickens' A Tale of Two Cities studied here, permitting him to pass for a Frenchman in the novel's climactic scene. 
Café on the Rive Gauche. 
Twickenham is where the Meagles lived in Dickens' Little Dorritt. Apparently, there is now a big soccer stadium in Twickenham, and the bar shows the broadcast games in TV.

Holy Eucharsist at Westminster Abbey

February 16, 2025

A good stroll through Traflagar Square (1) and past the household cavalry (horse guards), brought us to Whitehall, the seat of the British civil service. Number 10 Downing Street was around the corner behind a strong security fence.

Westminster Abbey held a sung eucharistic service this morning. We were held at the entrance after security, while the choir and priests filed by. We were subsequently directed to the left transept and a QR code for the order of service on our phones. While we could not see the choir in the central aisle, their crisp, clear voices filled the church. The Dean of Westminster (2) shared the presiding duties with at least two other priests (3). When the service ended, we were politely but firmly ushered out (4).

In the Dean's Yard, adjacent to the Abbey, we approached a café. The security guard said he would let "these three young ladies in" even without a reservation. Across the Thames for a view of Parliament, then back through Traflagar to Picadilly.

Afternoon tea is apparently a big (and quite expensive) thing in London. After being turned away from a number of places that were full, we found a simple café where we had tea, scones, jam and clotted cream. The penultimate train through the Chunnel at night brought us to Paris.

(1) Named after the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, during which the British Fleet under Lord Nelson decisively defeated the combined French/Spanish fleet off Cape Traflagar in southwest Spain. The English victory ended the theat of a French invasion of England for much of the remainder of the Napoeonic Wars (which ended at Waterloo in 1815).

(2) His homily was quite good; I can see why he is Dean.

(3) It appears that there is some process for visiting priest from the Anglican Communion (a) to participate in services at the Abbey. 

(a) The Angican Communion includes the Episcopal Church in America.

(4) Being a Sunday, the church is open for Religious services, but not for tourist visits. 

Nelson's Column at Trafalgar Square
The Household Cavalry
Whitehall, where Sir Humphrey worked 
No. 10 Downing St is back there somewhere
Westminster Abbey 
After the service
Parliament from the South Bank
Lion at Base of Nelson's Column

Hamilton in London

February 15, 2025

We (1) popped over to London for the President's Day Weekend. A pleasant stroll from Picadilly through St. James Park brought us to the Canada Gate, past which is Buckingham Palace. 

Further on was a matinee of the Broadway show Hamilton; tickets in London cost about 75% less than those in NYC. The show lived up to the hype, and the British crowd was not bothered by the comic portrayal of King George III.

Back through the ill-lit St James Park to Picadilly and an evening performance of Les Misérables. The West-end show was also long-running in Broadway (2).

(1) My wife, sister and I. A friend from Baltimore also joined us; we met her at Heathrow Airport.

(2) Based on the novel by Victor Hugo, Les Miz was originally a limited-run musical in Paris that became a phenomenon when it was later adapted for the London Stage.

Canada Gate, St. James Park
Buckingham Palace 
Awaiting the curtain at Hamilton
Outside Les Miserables