Friday, October 28, 2022

Mahler's 8th Symphony in London

October 22 to 23, 2022

A cheap flight brought me to Stansted, one of London's 5 airports, which was followed by a train and bike ride across the city. Les Misérables closed in NYC years ago, but was still playing in London. Even after 38 years, the musical still sounded fresh.

The plan on Sunday morning was to kayak with the tide up the Thames from Greenwich to Battersea. Heavy rain and thunderstorm warnings cancelled the paddle, so the Sherlock Holmes Museum beckoned (1). The guide told stories in the study, where Holmes met his clients, with his back to the window so the client's face was illuminated by the incoming light. A picture of Irene Adler from A Scandal in Bohemia, who outwitted Holmes, was on the fireplace mantle.

The Sunday afternoon performance of Mahler's 8th Symphony took place at Royal Albert Hall. The 8th is known as the "Symphony of a Thousand" for the number of performers required. While I did not count, this is probably an exaggeration, although the piece requires a large orchestra, an off-stage brass section, 8 soloists, two full adult choirs, and a boys choir. While I have heard the piece on recordings many times (2), I did not appreciate how the two choruses responded and interacted to each other until I saw and heard them in different ears.

(1) At 221B Baker St., of course. 

(2) I even have the full musical score.

At Les Miz in the West End
The Sherlock Holmes Museum
Wax figure of Professor Moriarty
In Hyde Park
Albert Memorial
Royal Albert Hall
The musical forces marshalled for Mahler's 8th


Saturday, October 22, 2022

Killiney Hill, County Dublin

October 21, 2022

Arrived at Dublin this morning to a wind-driven rain storm. Plan A was a kayak trip at Dalkey to see the seals in Dublin Bay.  Easterly winds at 25 knots had kicked up the surf on the Irish Sea, so the kayak trip was cancelled. 

A walk along the sea wall with a crashing sea might be fun, so I set off southbound from Dun Laoghaire after the short train ride from Dublin on the DART (1). The sky brightened and the rain stopped on the walk through the posh (2) sea-side suburbs south of Dublin.

After a few miles (and a few glimpses of blue sky), Killiney Hill beckoned. Rising steeply 500 feet above the Sea, the hill is surrounded by a public park with trails leading to the summit (3). The park seems popular with people out walking their dogs. The sun appeared through the scudding clouds as I neared the summit, offering fine views over the Irish Sea glistening below in the sporadic sunshine.

Dalkey Hill was visible to the North and was accessible via rougher paths. After summtting Dalkey Hill, I descended to the town along puddled paths through an old quarry, passing a dog walker who commented on the favorable turn of weather. About a 7 mile walk/hike, fortuitously during the driest part of the day. 

The rain began again as I reached Dalkey town, where a short DART ride returned me to Dun Laoghaire. My hotel for the night previously hosted Queen Victoria and Charlie Chaplin. A powerful lighthouse was visible out to sea, presumably the Dublin landfall light with a pattern of two flashes every twelves seconds. 

(1) Dublin Area Rapid Transit, somewhere between a subway/metro system and a commuter rail.

(2) Originally meaning "port out, starboard home" for the better side of the ship on a trip from England to India.

(3) Unlike hiking in the mountains, the park is laid out more like Park Mount Royal in Montréal (a), with well-groomed trails designed to encourage urban dwellers to enjoy the outdoors. 

(a) The park in Montréal was designed by Frederick Law Olmstead, creator of the field of landscape architecture, who also laid out Central Park in NYC.

No paddling today
Muglins Lighthouse
Dalkey Island

Approaching Killiney Hill Summit
View to Dalkey Island
View south from Killiney Hill
View back to Killiney from Dalkeu Hill
Descending through Quarry
DART train