Sunday, August 27, 2017

NW Spain: Quintana del Castillo

August 27, 2017

My wife's grandfather came from a small town called Quintana del Castillo, near Astroga. She had visited Quintana for a month with her grandfather in 1973 when she was twelve years old. She stayed at the old family house where her great aunt and uncle lived. When we arrived, nothing initially looked familiar to her.

It was Sunday morning and church was just getting out, so we approached an older couple walking home from church and asked (in very broken Spanish) if they knew where the old family house was. They recognized the name and asked a woman (Oliva) who appeared to be at least an octogenarian. She did remember the family, remembered that one brother had gone to America, one to Buenos Aires, and one to Cuba. Much to our pleasant surprise, she also remembered that the brother from America had once visited and brought his granddaughter (my wife) with him.

Church, Quintana del Castillo

Oliva's granddaughter (Anna) showed us the house, which my wife remembered well when she saw it. Anna was soon joined by her husband (Javier) who spoke a bit of English also together they brought us to the cemetery, where we eventually found my wife's great aunt fonal resting place. She died in 2004 when she was 97 years old. 

The old family house where my wife stayed in 1973

Visiting the house again, a man came out from the house acroos the street. We both spoke a little French, so we explained what we doing. He told us he owns the house, which is currently unoccupied. 

Cat in dry river bed, Quintana del Castillo

We drove to Astorga to try to find some flowers for the grave; no luck with flowers, so we got some cookies instead. A quick visit to the Astorga cathedral revealed an unusual statue of Mary Magdaline.

Mary Magdaline, Astorga Cathedral

. We returned to to Quintana, paid our respects at the grave (by leaving cookies) and drove on to León, where we spent the night. Tomorrow, I travel to Scotland for a few days for business
Storm clouds gathering over the Castillan hills
León Cathedral

NW Spain: Cape Finisterre

August 26, 2017

The early morning train from Burela to Ferrol afforded very pleasant views of the sunrise over the ocean. We learned the Spanish words for one-way and round trip from the train conductor as we bought our tickets.

Sunrise in Galicia, Views from Train
Local Galician Train at Ferrol

Upon arrival a Ferrol, we walked across town to collect a rental car and drive down the coast to Cape Finisterre (Land's End). There were a large number of hikers walking out to the end of the penninsula. This is the end of a common Spanish hiking/pilgrimage trailed called "Camino de Santiago."

Cape Finisterre Lighthouse
Lighthouse Detail

Islet at Cape Finisterre

After a nice visit, we drove up over the mountains into the neighboring region of Castillo y Leon. We spent the night at an lovely old house in the small village of El Valle that has been converted to a small hotel.


View from hotel window, El Valle

Saturday, August 26, 2017

NW Spain: Feve train to Burela

August 25, 2017

After an early morning arrival at Asturias Airport, we took the bus downtown Oviedo. We walked to see the cathedral, which is rather grandiose.

Altar, Oviedo Cathedral
Cloisters, Oviedo Cathedral

We took the afternoon train to Burela, a small port town in Galicia. The train is meter guage due to the light loads and frequent tunnels on the line. About 1/2 hour into the trip, everybody got off at a small station. A nice woman signalled to us to get off as well; for some reason, we had to change trains. 

Old-Time Tile Advertisement, 
Unscheduled change of trains

The train was soon on the coast of the Atlantic, passing pleasant towns and villages. After crossing into Galicia, the terrian looked more maritime and rural. In Galicia, there were two languages on the signs at the train stations: Spanish and Galician (1). The town of Burela is a fishing port, where the few tourists are almost all Spanish.

(1) Galician, spoken in northwest Spain (adjacent to Portugal) is either a dialect of Portuguese, or its own language, depending on whom you believe. The language was forbidden during Franco era (1930s until 1975).

Views from the train, Asturias
Views from the train, Galicia