Rhino at Hlane

August 12 to 14, 2025

Descending from the edge of the highveld at Mlilwane through the middleveld brought us to the flat lowveld country in northeast eSwatini (1).The road here, built at the behest of the sugarcane growers, bisects the conservation areas here.

The former royal hunting grounds, Hlane Royal National Park contains lions and elephants, important symbols of the Swazi Royal family. At the gate, I was greeted by name as if an old friend by the attendant (2).

A crash of White Rhino were gathered at the water hole visible from reception. Within a few minutes of our arrival, we decided to spend another night at the park (2). The Rhino walked into the bush with the setting sun (3).

Up early for a sunrise game drive offered more white rhino viewing. Poaching of rhino for their horns (4) has resulted in serious poaching problems; Hlane will not even reveal how many animals they have. While previously allowed the run of the park, lions are now in a separate (very large) area of the park, segregated from the rhino. The lions were not segregated due to predation of the rhino, but to permit anti-poaching patrols without fear of lions attacking the rangers. A break for coffee and tea in the bush was a nice touch.

After breakfast, we drove through the gate to a bird hide at a water hole deep in the park. Cautiously getting out of the car (5), we enjoyed watching a variety of animals come and go.

On the sunset game drive there was a British couple riding their bikes from Maputo through eSwatini and into South Africa as their honeymoon. The wife pointed into the bush and called out "A lion's mane." "No," replied the polite guide, "that's a termite mound," as her new husband laughed. After dinner, a local Swazi dance group entertained the guests by the firelight. 

Our guide (6) for the (somewhat foggy) morning bush walk pointed out the various giraffe, elephant, lion and homo sapien tracks (our shoe prints) and how recent they were. Chittering oxpeckers pointed out where the rhinos were. The birds have a symbiotic relationship with the rhino, eating ticks off the rhinos back and raising a warning cry when humans (and other predators) approach. The rhino were inured to our presence, placidly munching and lying on the ground (7). We followed the rhino to the waterhole to end our walk.

Leaving Hlane, we watched baboons grabbing sugarcane from the adjacent fields which had fallen off trucks. We inadvertently drove into a company town (8) run by the sugar cane grower; even the church had the company logo.

(1) While a small country (slightly larger than Connecticut), eSwatini has 6 distinct climate zones due to its varying elevation and topography.

(2) Plan A for tomorrow had been to spend the night in nearby Mozambique. While possible to bring our rental car there 6 months ago when I booked, this is now prohibited due to deterioration in Mozambique's security situation.

(3) Our rondavel accomodations had en-suite bathrooms with hot and cold water, but no electricity. Lighting is provided in the units and on the path from the restaurant by paraffin lanterns. 

(4) Used in traditional Asian medicine.

(5) While there are no predators in this part of the park, the impala have horns that look quite sharp when you're out of your car and walking by.

(6) To my surprise, the guide was unarmed. I hoped the rhinos were in a good mood.

(7) "When near rhino, always know where the nearest tree is, to climb if the rhino starts to charge." 

(8) The town was shown on the map about 20 miles from its actual location. The only reasonably good map I have had of the country was a free map I picked up a number of years ago that precisely marked the location of every KFC (a) in the country with the company's logo.

(a) Yes, Kentucky Fried Chicken. 

Afternoon arrival

White Rhino at Hlane Water hole

Morning game drive:

Lions are separated from the Rhino to protect the rangers protecting the rhino.

Back at camp:

Male nyala

Vervet monkeys

At the dam by the hide:

Hippos

Maribou stork

Dark-cap bulbul

African Pied Wagtail

Waterbok

Sunset game drive:

Spotted hyena

Swazi dance

Bush walk the last morning:

Morning fog

Close encounter with the rhino

Hippo at the water hole

Out of the park: traffic calming the Swazi way

Duiker & Mount Nyonyane at Mlilwane

August 9 to 11, 2025

The day flight from Europe to Johannesburg avoids two overnight flights in a row when coming from Boston. After a good night's sleep at an airport hotel, we rented a car and headed east toward eSwatini. Near the border crossing at Ngwenya (1) is Swazi Glass blowing, recycling broken glass into drinking glasses, animal figurines, &c.

Downhill into the Kingdom (1), we got off the highway at the Ezulwini Valley, heading to the Mlilwane Wildlife reserve. Mlilwane means little fire in siSwati, for the fires kindled by lightning. A former cattle ranch, Ted Reilly transformed the property into a reserve, reintroducing various antelope species that had gone locally extinct.

Passing through the roan antelope (2) enclosure (3), we drove up Mlilwane Hill to the former owner's house, converted into a nice lodge. The enclosure in which the lodge sits is home to the waterbok and Duiker (blue and red) antelope. We dined outdoors by the fire, accompanied by a Belgian family, while the host (4) told us about Swazi customs.

Next morning, we headed out towards Mt. Nyonyane (5). Rising 1,000 feet from the valley floor, Nyonyane is the high point of the park. Ruth, the hostess, told us that we would need to climb a ladder over a fence on the trail. I'm glad she did; I would have been uncertain about the propriety of doing so otherwise. 

Descending Mlilwane Hill, we climbed over the fence, traversed a small valley, and began our ascent to Nyonyane. The well-marked trail ascended steadily before steepening at the exposed rocks. Turning right at a trail junction (6), some rock scrambling was required to reach the open summit, offering sweeping 360° views. We lingered to enjoy the views, noting smoke rising from small fires, and a generally smoky haze to the south as the dry season neared its end.

Descending on the same trail, we arrived back at the lodge for a mid-afternoon departure from Mlilwane. Total elevation gain of 1,200 feet on a four-mile (round trip) hike.

(1) Ngwenya means crocodile in siSwati, and the town is named for the shape of the mountain just north of town.

(2) Basically an absolute monarchy, eSwatini was until recently known as Swaziland.

(3) Now very rare in Southern Africa, the roan population at Mlilwane has expanded from the six roan brought in from a London Zoo.

(4) While breaking up the land, the enclosures (measured in square kilometers) are better for keeping the animals in contact with each other to encourage breeding and to protect them from competing with other species for forage.

(5) My wife was pleased to meet Ruth, the resident chef. I had raved about her rolls from my last visit, and Ruth was pleasantly surprised to hear my wife knew about her cooking. 

(6) Nyonyane is also known as Execution Rock, for its historic use. Those condemned to death threw themselves off the east-facing cliff, prodded by warriors with spears.

(7) Turning left, the main trail follows the ridge to the west.

On the flight to Johannesburg:

The trackless Sahara

Sunset over the Congo

Dusk

Waning gibbous moonrise over the Congo basin

At Ngwenya Glass blowing:

Literally

At Mlilwane:

Mt Nyonyane: Our destination 

Trail goes on a ladder over the fence 

On the trail

Steeper trail approaching the summit

Summit views

South through the reserve

North to Sheba's breasts

West into the reserve

East across the Ezulwini Valley

Late winter blooms

Back over the fence

Duiker tracks 

Waterbok

Red Duiker in the garden

Blue Duiker

Driving out through the roan area